Mounting New Radio

[JacobD]

We do the same thing as what Mark McLeod said. We Velcro it on the top for two reasons:

1- The feet aren't in the way
2- The PIN is still visible for when need to configure a new network

[SuperBK]

Funny guy, right here.

[Mark McLeod]

Originally Posted by feverittm

... the version that is currently being tested by the Beta test teams is a 12V units and not 5V as it was in previous years.

Something I did was make sure to flag each barrel connector with the voltage it is carrying and the device it is to provide power to. I also flag the positive wire with a red flag at the VRM end to lessen the chance of a miswire there.

Originally Posted by billbo911

How well did that TRENDnet switch work for you? Were there any issues with it at all? It seems like a good choice for adding additional ports.

I haven't had any issues with it. It's nice and light.
It couples nicely with the radio and one shared VRM, since the radio takes from the 12v side and the switch takes from the 5v side.

[Alicia V]

Does anyone know if there are new guidelines for the radio? Is there any part of it that need to be visible for inspection?

We had a slot for the previous radio that was similar to a phone case- a polycarbonate frame with Velcro on the inside. I'm thinking we could do the same with this one but put Velcro on the front and possibly the bottom to hold it in place, the problem with this is the location of the ports.

If anyone makes a CAD for mounting it, please post.

[Mark McLeod]

Make the status indicators visible from the side of the field when you mount the radio.

The power and Ethernet ports at one end are nice for the field staff to be able to see from close up when troubleshooting, too, but they don't have to be visible from far away like the status lights.

There isn't anything else to see on the sides or bottom, but they do have ventilation slots that should get some air exposure, but also be protected from metal dust and shards.

The antennas used are along the sides, so keep those away from close contact with metal and with a clear line of sight outside the robot.

[GeeTwo]

How tall are those feet?

In the past, we've used Scotch/3m Duallock fasteners to hold our radios down. We've had occasional trouble getting the duallock to stick to our control board or the modem, but not to each other. When we've cleaned plastic surfaces (e.g. with alcohol) prior to use, we've done pretty well. Duallock is nearly 1/4" thick when engaged. If that's not enough, a fairly light spacer (such as a piece currogated plastic sign board) in the mix should be able to fill the gap.

[EricH]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

How tall are those feet?

In the past, we've used Scotch/3m Duallock fasteners to hold our radios down. We've had occasional trouble getting the duallock to stick to our control board or the modem, but not to each other. When we've cleaned plastic surfaces (e.g. with alcohol) prior to use, we've done pretty well. Duallock is nearly 1/4" thick when engaged. If that's not enough, a fairly light spacer (such as a piece currogated plastic sign board) in the mix should be able to fill the gap.

Are the feet big enough to stick a decent-sized piece of Velcro or similar onto?

Can the feet be removed safely (and legally--but that part will have to wait until next season)?

[marshall]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

How tall are those feet?

In the past, we've used Scotch/3m Duallock fasteners to hold our radios down. We've had occasional trouble getting the duallock to stick to our control board or the modem, but not to each other. When we've cleaned plastic surfaces (e.g. with alcohol) prior to use, we've done pretty well. Duallock is nearly 1/4" thick when engaged. If that's not enough, a fairly light spacer (such as a piece currogated plastic sign board) in the mix should be able to fill the gap.

Picture of the feet:
http://team358.org/files/programming...Radio-back.jpg

You can remove the little black rubber widgets but I wouldn't modify the plastic housing... or maybe I would... I haven't decided what we're going to do yet.

They are tall enough that engagement of velcro on a flat surface is not ideal. A spacer is a good idea.

EDIT: Removed duallock hypothesis since Mark says that it is a no-go below.

[Mark McLeod]

The feet are 4 millimeters or 5/32".
It's the same spacing as one side of 3M Dual-lock to the tips of the hooks, so a spacer would be necessary. The side of dual-lock can be easily slid under the radio when it's sitting flat on a table with no snagging.

Remember too that there are ventilation slots covering most of the bottom that I'd be loath to completely cover, especially with fuzzy insulation.
I personally like to be able to still see the critical parts of the labeling-power specs, MAC address.

[GeeTwo]

Originally Posted by marshall

Picture of the feet:
http://team358.org/files/programming...Radio-back.jpg

Now that I've seen it, why not use those key-shaped mounting holes? Two pan-head bolts with spacers behind should be able to engage them, then just add a bracket to keep it from sliding towards letting them out the keyholes. (top in photo). It looks like there's a 3" spacing, so we may be good to go on pegboard without drilling.

[marshall]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

Now that I've seen it, why not use those key-shaped mounting holes? Two pan-head bolts with spacers behind should be able to engage them, then just add a bracket to keep it from sliding towards letting them out the keyholes. (top in photo). It looks like there's a 3" spacing, so we may be good to go on pegboard without drilling.

Also a good idea.

[Mark McLeod]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

It looks like there's a 3" spacing, so we may be good to go on pegboard without drilling.

The two mounting holes are 2 5/8" apart center-to-center.
A pan head 5/16" in diameter fits.

[PayneTrain]

Dual-Lock and a velcro strap would get you 100% of the way there but if you want to make a 3D printed sleeve and post it on the internet for me to steal that works.