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  #46   Spotlight this post!  
Unread 12-12-2015, 19:15
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Re: FRC pocketing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Dognaux View Post
http://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-2...-pc-68113.html

95% of FRC teams should have a set of these and use them often. We had a lot of 1/8th inch 2" x 1" aluminum last year that got cheesed significantly by some of our students that needed something to do.

We always try to come in under weight and adding some lightening holes only helps in a lot of areas of the robot. Cheese early, cheese often.
I just bought that exact set the other day for our team. It was the most reasonable one with a 1 1/8" saw. We were hoping to use it mostly on wood, but since the teeth are HSS, I thought it had potential aluminum use. Does it work well? How many more files will we need to buy to get rid of the burrs? :-P
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Unread 12-12-2015, 20:05
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by Alan Anderson View Post
I see a bunch of trusses at various scales, but no pocketing jumps out at me. Am I missing something?
They're functionally the same, though how you get there is different. There are definitely pockets on the bridge - large oval ones about a foot and a half wide and three feet long. Some (especially those on the old middle segment with the train) are really intended as access holes for riveting, but the ones on the outer tubes are just there to reduce weight. The easiest examples to see flank the vertical beam that drops from that large multi-directional joint to near the center of the white boxcar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Dognaux View Post
While we haven't done any lightening holes the past three years, we've found that cutting large holes in 1/8" or thinner aluminum (e.g. for pneumatic cylinder and bearing mounts) is easier, faster, and cleaner with a spade bit than with a hole saw. If access allows, we score the outer circle on one side, then complete the cut on the other.


Edit based on a later post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett33 View Post
I am not sure on the lifespan yet, but I have had very good success using this tool for drilling through 1/8" and 1/16" aluminum with a cordless drill. It produces a very nice hole in a very short time without the need for any cutting fluid.
http://www.menards.com/main/electric...80219544263520
Very cool; halfway between the spade bit and the hole saw - with carbide teeth. I noticed on the Menard site that it's intended for making knockouts in steel boxes, and useful for stainless. As such, it should have an excellent lifespan on aluminum.
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Last edited by GeeTwo : 12-12-2015 at 21:17.
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Unread 12-12-2015, 20:54
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Re: FRC pocketing

I am not sure on the lifespan yet, but I have had very good success using this tool for drilling through 1/8" and 1/16" aluminum with a cordless drill. It produces a very nice hole in a very short time without the need for any cutting fluid.

http://www.menards.com/main/electric...80219544263520
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Last edited by Everett33 : 12-12-2015 at 21:11.
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Unread 12-12-2015, 21:06
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Re: FRC pocketing

For those considering .125 wall versus .063, by the time you pocket .125 to be the same weight as .063 unpocketed it will actually be weaker.

Thin wall tubing is one of the best things for saving weight.
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Unread 12-12-2015, 21:50
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Re: FRC pocketing

I wish VEX Pro sold VersaFrame without the holes in it.
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  #51   Spotlight this post!  
Unread 12-12-2015, 22:14
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Re: FRC pocketing

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanddrag View Post
I wish VEX Pro sold VersaFrame without the holes in it.
Coast Aluminum will sell you that... for a much better price.
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Unread 12-12-2015, 22:52
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Re: FRC pocketing

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanddrag View Post
I wish VEX Pro sold VersaFrame without the holes in it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHeard View Post
Coast Aluminum will sell you that... for a much better price.
Absolutely! Without the holes, there are a great number of suppliers available, many at a much lower cost. The value added of VersaFrame is in the pre-drilled holes, which should improve consistency between our practice and competition robots.
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Unread 12-12-2015, 23:03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett33 View Post
I am not sure on the lifespan yet, but I have had very good success using this tool for drilling through 1/8" and 1/16" aluminum with a cordless drill. It produces a very nice hole in a very short time without the need for any cutting fluid.

http://www.menards.com/main/electric...80219544263520
Thanks for this we are ordering one.
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Unread 12-12-2015, 23:36
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by GeeTwo View Post
Absolutely! Without the holes, there are a great number of suppliers available, many at a much lower cost.
I assume you are talking about the outside dimensions, and not the 0.100" thickness.
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Unread 13-12-2015, 00:11
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by AdamHeard View Post
Coast Aluminum will sell you that... for a much better price.
With 0.1 or 0.040 wall thickness?
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Unread 13-12-2015, 00:23
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Re: FRC pocketing

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanddrag View Post
With 0.1 or 0.040 wall thickness?
.060" & .125"
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Unread 13-12-2015, 13:45
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by Cory View Post
You should investigate using 1/16 wall tube if you frequently have this problem. It's going to be stronger than a heavily pocketed out 1/8" wall tube.
Totally agree - we had already purchased a lot of 1/8" thickness material and didn't have 1/16th yet. We later swapped our elevator railing to 1/16" thickness with no holes and loved it.

We pretty much used all 1/8th 2" x 1" on our drive train though and used the hole saws to take some material out. It's just too convenient for us to go any thinner on the drive since we can press bearings in as needed and not really need to worry about adding extra material.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanddrag
That Harbor Freight set is pretty inexpensive. Does it work well? For anyone looking for a high-quality hole saw set, I've been very happy with this set.
The answer, as with everything from Harbor Freight, is it depends on the application. We cheesed some thin plate material this year with them and we also cut holes in 1/8" thick aluminum with them. With the thicker material I'd highly recommend vigorous use of cutting fluid. After about 100 holes over two robots this year we killed one of them, which isn't really surprising. For the price they do a decent job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Hill
Does it work well? How many more files will we need to buy to get rid of the burrs?
That's when you break out your cheap angle grinder that you also purchased at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in...der-69645.html - obviously doesn't work too well for the interior burrs but we weren't too concerned with those. Can hit those with your Dremel tool as needed.
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Last edited by Ryan Dognaux : 13-12-2015 at 13:51.
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Unread 13-12-2015, 19:03
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by Michael Hill View Post
How many more files will we need to buy to get rid of the burrs? :-P
I thoroughly recommend purchasing one or two deburring knives. One of my favorite tools in the lab.

Not the one we have, but virtually the same
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Debur...X090/204218603
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Unread 14-12-2015, 12:40
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by s_forbes View Post
Hi all, just got my first pocketed gearbox plate off the mill. plz r8.

This is the best post. I hope to see you at Flagstaff in March.
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Unread 14-12-2015, 13:47
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Re: FRC pocketing

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Originally Posted by Seth Mallory View Post
This is the best post. I hope to see you at Flagstaff in March.
I'm sure I'll find you first, assuming you guys make more awesome gearboxes! I haven't had a chance to see one in person. They look much better than my collection of sponges.
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