2016 Bosch motor 6004 RA3 194-06

[Bennett548]

Have you tried drilling out the star pattern at 3/8" and broaching a key or a 3/8" hex?

This motor seems like a good choice when you would like to use a hobby servo motor, but need much more power (and have a home position sensor). The biggest issue I see with this motor is that it can't support any load on the output. In FRC we love to abuse our motors and gearboxes by hanging way too much weight on them.

Do you know if these will be available from AndyMark after First Choice is over?

[bigbeezy]

Originally Posted by Bennett548

Have you tried drilling out the star pattern at 3/8" and broaching a key or a 3/8" hex?

Would this kind of modification be legal? I know you can modify output shafts on motors but with this being internal does that make it different?

[cgmv123]

Originally Posted by bigbeezy

Would this kind of modification be legal? I know you can modify output shafts on motors but with this being internal does that make it different?

Last year's rule says "The mounting brackets and/or output shaft/interface may be modified...". It seems like that modification would be covered by that wording.

[MrForbes]

how to attach a lever to the motor (just guessing here) get one of these adapters, which you might already have in your toolbox.



Insert the square end into the star shaped hole in the motor. Might take some grinding to get it to fit.

then put a 1/4" combination wrench on the hex part of the adapter.

[DaveL]

Are the internal gears metal?

How much torque can the output shaft experience before breaking an internal component?

Dave

[kprzewodek]

Originally Posted by DaveL

Are the internal gears metal?

How much torque can the output shaft experience before breaking an internal component?

Dave

Internal gears are all plastic except for the worm. Hard to predict absolute limit since a lot depends on how well it is mounted and how tight the fit to the shaft and if it's a quick or slow force acting on it. These plastic gears will take quite a bit of abuse but something will crack or strip if lets say you have a long lever arm and smash into something.

We have a metal gear option but it was so heavy we decided not to offer it.

[kprzewodek]

Originally Posted by MrForbes

how to attach a lever to the motor (just guessing here) get one of these adapters, which you might already have in your toolbox.



Insert the square end into the star shaped hole in the motor. Might take some grinding to get it to fit.

then put a 1/4" combination wrench on the hex part of the adapter.

I did find a few options in a mechanics toolbox where the square part fit exactly. It was a non standard fitting though. Might take a little digging but it's out there. That is a good option for a quick and simple solution.

[kprzewodek]

Originally Posted by Bennett548

Have you tried drilling out the star pattern at 3/8" and broaching a key or a 3/8" hex?

This motor seems like a good choice when you would like to use a hobby servo motor, but need much more power (and have a home position sensor). The biggest issue I see with this motor is that it can't support any load on the output. In FRC we love to abuse our motors and gearboxes by hanging way too much weight on them.

Do you know if these will be available from AndyMark after First Choice is over?

I do have a 3/8" rotary broach and may give that a try. I think it might take too much of the wall out though.

You definitely need to mount this to a completely supported shaft since that acts as the output and second support. If you use the motor to support the shaft then you will most likely have problems.

We decided to offer in limited amounts to get a feel if teams will use them. If there is enough demand then we may be able to consider another order. This is a high volume production motor so it's fairly easy to order more if needed.

[HumblePie]

We received our first 2 motors yesterday. It looks like the internal star pattern will also accept a 6mm square key (I measured 6.05mm). Oversized key stock (+0/+0.08 tolerance) will probably fit nicely (in stock at McMaster-Carr). I'm also thinking about modifying a 1/4" bore AndyMark hub to accept the 6mm square. Thoughts?

[MrForbes]

The reason I suggested putting a wrench on the output of this motor, is because of the speed at which it rotates. There really isn't much use for a shaft, is there?

[kprzewodek]

As long as what you are driving is fully supported there really isn't much need for a shaft I guess.

[kprzewodek]

Seems like broaching a 3/8" hex still leaves some meat on the gear. Think I'll try and see how it holds up.

[HumblePie]

I laid out one concept for packaging this motor that would fully support the load by sandwiching 2 mounting plates around (1 or 2) piece(s) of 1" square tube. The motor has only one (slotted) mounting hole, so I added a bore to locate on one of the motor bosses and provide some "clocking" of the motor. The drive shaft is a piece of 1/2" hex milled down to a 6mm square on one end. Another option would be to use a 3/8" hex all the way, so I'm curious to see Kevin's results on broaching the motor out to a 3/8" hex.

If there's interest, I'd happily share the CAD file. I got one quote online for waterjet cutting the plates, and it looks like about $100 to make 10 pieces.

[topgun]

I am interested in the CAD file. SolidWorks format hopefully.

[kprzewodek]

That's a nice robust design. I'll experiment over the weekend with broaching a hex and see how it goes.

For a less robust way of doing it I've had success 3D printing a hub inside two plates that you can mount an arm. Simplifies a bit in that you can eliminate bearings.