New AndyMark products 2016

[Jay O'Donnell]

Rocketbox looks really cool. If I wanted a PTO this year that's probably where I would go.

[jkelleyrtp]

Originally Posted by Jay O'Donnell

Rocketbox looks really cool. If I wanted a PTO this year that's probably where I would go.

$320 is a little much for a PTO, don't you think?

[cadandcookies]

Originally Posted by jkelleyrtp

$320 is a little much for a PTO, don't you think?

Not really. Can you point to a comparable product for less?

[jman4747]

Originally Posted by jkelleyrtp

$320 is a little much for a PTO, don't you think?

Not based on the manufacturing cost.

Edit: Cim encoder too! http://www.andymark.com/encoder-p/am-3314.htm

[nuclearnerd]

Originally Posted by jman4747

Edit: Cim encoder too! http://www.andymark.com/encoder-p/am-3314.htm

Now that we can use!

[Munchskull]

http://www.andymark.com/encoder-p/am-3314.htm

Looks a little pricy when there is already open source 3d printable alternative.

[jman4747]

Originally Posted by Munchskull

http://www.andymark.com/encoder-p/am-3314.htm

Looks a little pricy when there is already open source 3d printable alternative.

Not if you don't have a 3D printer or mill/lathe. Also This looks thinner that the AMT-103V based options.

[Munchskull]

Originally Posted by jman4747

Not if you don't have a 3D printer or mill/lathe. Also This looks thinner that the AMT-103V based options.

That is true. It does require you to have a 3d printer. This CIM motor encoder is how ever way more versatile than the 3d printed one due to the fact that you do not loose that much shaft.

[marshall]

Originally Posted by Munchskull

shaft

These things are some bad mountable encoders!

[mklenk2016]

What parts are needed to convert the standard am14u3 kit from AndyMark to be able to use 8" pneumatic wheels?

[PurpleInk]

Originally Posted by mklenk2016

What parts are needed to convert the standard am14u3 kit from AndyMark to be able to use 8" pneumatic wheels?

AM-14U3-PN8

That will be a kit that will contain everything needed to outfit the AndyMark 8" pneumatic wheel on the AM14U3 Chassis.

It should be available for purchase this weekend.

Watch us assemble it LIVE: andymark.com/ri3d

[rpaulsen]

Originally Posted by PurpleInk

AM-14U3-PN8

That will be a kit that will contain everything needed to outfit the AndyMark 8" pneumatic wheel on the AM14U3 Chassis.

It should be available for purchase this weekend.

Watch us assemble it LIVE: andymark.com/ri3d

Hey my team just got the 8" wheel upgrade kit last night, and we are having some trouble figuring out which pieces go where. We have tried calling AndyMark but was asked to wait for the CAD files. Has anyone successfully put it together and would be able to help in the meanwhile?

[Mr V]

Ri3D Team [REDACTED] put together an early version of the pneumatic wheel kit but per my conversation with one of the AndyMark engineers the kit that is being sold to the general public has been changed based on the experiences of putting together the prototype kit.

So from my understanding on the drive wheel both pulleys go on the same side opposite from the valve stem side. On the outer wheel which will be driven by the outer belt there is a larger spacer that goes between the wheel and pulley. On the wheel driven by the inside belt there will be a long spacer outside the pulley.

Note for the kit used by some of the Ri3D teams you do need some of the spacers used in the basic 14U3 chassis.

So based on what I know now the wheel/axle spacers will go sort of like this.

Center driven wheel.
hex hub-wheel-small hub spacer-pulley-hub spacer?-pulley-hex bore spacer.

Outer wheel 1
small axle spacer- bearing/wheel/bearing assembly-hub spacer-pulley-long spacer

Outer wheel 2
small axle spacer-bearing/wheel/bearing assembly- thick hub spacer/hub spacer?-pulley-axle spacer.

Note this is speculation particularly those parts marked with a ? but hopefully that is enough to get you headed in the correct direction. In all cases the order is based on starting at the inner plate that carries the transmission.

Note that the kit the Ri3D teams used came with belts for a "long" 8" wheel configuration but we and the 'Snow Problem team used the belts and wheel locations for the square configuration for a shorter wheel base. In our case it was to reduce the break over angle, ie reduce the likelihood of getting high centered on the rock wall or moat. We also found that configuration gets the front of the chassis higher as you go up the ramps that the defense sits between. That was a plus when crossing the low defenses but a minus when getting under the bar or getting an manipulator under the porticullis to lift it.

[Roscoe Plowbots]

Team 3366, Roscoe Plowbots here, we have tried this conversion kit; however, we could not find the order to assemble it. We finally discovered that it requires some self manufacturing. Here is what we did:

Main Hub: hub ground down 3/8'- pulley - wheel, - pulley spacer w/ pulley end cap - hex nut

Right Wheel: small white spacer - large white spacer - inset pulley spacer - pulley - wheel - 34mm custom spacer

Left Wheel: small white spacer - large white spacer - wheel - 34mm custom spacer.

This is for the pneumatic 8' square drive train with 6 wheels. We used a small pvc pipe for the 34 mm custom spacer. Note: on left wheel you do not use the inset pulley spacer, if you do your bolts will get caught on the frame of the robot.

[Jay O'Donnell]

Originally Posted by jkelleyrtp

$320 is a little much for a PTO, don't you think?

It is slightly more expensive than the WCP Shifting gearbox, and the shifting is being allocated to a whole new shaft. It's definitely expensive, but so is everything else in the robot world.