Velcro for electrical components

[natejo99]

We are looking to use velcro to secure all of our electrical components to our drive base. This would help to increase accesiblity, and to make it easier to replace components. However, with all the difficult terrain this year, there might be an issue with components being knocked loose. Which method would be more effective?

[JB987]

Try zip ties...quick removal and installation.

[JCharlton]

Don't use Velcro, use this instead:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#mushroom-he...eners/=10r0kpf

It also goes by the brand name 'Dual Lock'.

It has the advantage of not being 'sided' (there's no hook and loop, it's all the same thing), and it also snaps together, not at all like Velcro's mushy connection. We use it on most of our electrical components. It's expensive, but great stuff.

That said, with the rough terrain you might want some suspenders to go with your belts.

[marshall]

Velcro works just fine. We've used it for many years.

If you are very concerned then zipties work well too.

If you have the weight and want to go to the extreme then use bolts.

[philso]

Try attaching some (old) components on a sample panel and beat the panel on something to see if they come loose. We used Velcro to attach all the electrical components (PDP, Talons, Spike, VR) on our electronics panels for Aerial Assault and nothing came loose.

You may also want to try using the heavy duty 3M/Scotch DuoLock. I find that the 10 lb. rated stuff holds better and is not as "squishy" as the Velcro is so the mounted item does not rock slightly as when attached with Velcro. It also only has one type (not hook and loop) so it is not possible to screw up and install hook opposite hook and loop opposite loop. It is on the racks next to the big rolls of Velcro at Home Depot.

Scotch-1-in-x-4-ft-Black-Extreme-Fasteners-RF6741/205520125
Scotch-1-in-x-4-ft-Clear-Extreme-Fasteners-RF6740/205520112
Scotch-1-in-x-10-ft-Black-Extreme-Fasteners-RF6761/204465400
Scotch-1-in-x-10-ft-Clear-Extreme-Fasteners-RF6760/204465393

[scca229]

Belt and suspenders in one would be waxed lace cord:
http://www.specialized.net/Specializ...pool-4862.aspx

A good tutorial from this site will get you going:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...able_lace.html

Watch a few Youtube videos on cable lacing to get the technique down and it will NEVER come undone without cutting it apart. As you tighten, the friction melts a little of the wax which solidifies in the knot, keeping it in place so that you can cut the free ends 1/4" away without worry of them pulling back through. As a bonus, you don't have the sharp edges that come with zip ties that are improperly cut and it just looks awesome when implemented. I would do it as a final dressing up of the wiring once no changes are to be done as it does take some time, but well worth it in my opinion.

This image shows the Mars Hand Lens Imager (MAHLI) on NASA's Curiosity rover with all of the wiring stitched up using waxed lace.
http://www.nasa.gov/centers/jpl/imag...ia16161-43.jpg


Anyone planning on going into the telecommunication industry dealing with equipment installation directly, particularly sites (POPs, COs, even self-respecting wiring closets), will become very familiar with the "No Zip Ties/Tie Wraps Allowed!" Waxed Lace, or much less frequently if not permanent Velcro/Hook & Loop/Dual Lock, is all that is allowed. I've sometimes stood there and marveled at the lacing skills of some of the cabling installations that were 80+ years old and how beautiful they look and then trying to live up to the same standards in my new cabling for modern gear. We've even left some of the old stuff in place just to show how it should be done.

[edong4273]

As JCharlton has said, I do believe that our team normally uses Duel Lock along with zip ties to keep our electronics down and to keep out wires clean.

[MrForbes]

We usually use wood screws....since Velcro doesn't stick well to wood, and zip ties are kind of difficult to use in blind holes....

[juchong]

Originally Posted by MrForbes

We usually use wood screws....since Velcro doesn't stick well to wood, and zip ties are kind of difficult to use in blind holes....

Same here, although we've been known to use a couple of zipties for heavier and more "in the way" components. I do not recommend "fuzzy" Velcro for mounting electronics.

[pfreivald]

Originally Posted by juchong

Same here, although we've been known to use a couple of zipties for heavier and more "in the way" components. I do not recommend "fuzzy" Velcro for mounting electronics.

We've used "industrial strength" hook-and-loop (Velcro) for mounting all of our pneumatics since at least 2010 and never had a single issue. Why wouldn't you recommend it?

[Sperkowsky]

We personally stick to zip ties except on the radio where we use Duralock.

[Philip Arola]

As far as I can recall, we have bolted down nearly all our electronics, with the exception of last minute gadgets.
If you cannot drill into the surface, VHB is one of the most annoyingly powerful adhesives I've ever had the pleasure of using. Which, coincidentally, is included in the KoP this year.

[cbale2000]

Originally Posted by JCharlton

Don't use Velcro, use this instead:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#mushroom-he...eners/=10r0kpf

It also goes by the brand name 'Dual Lock'.

It has the advantage of not being 'sided' (there's no hook and loop, it's all the same thing), and it also snaps together, not at all like Velcro's mushy connection. We use it on most of our electrical components. It's expensive, but great stuff.

That said, with the rough terrain you might want some suspenders to go with your belts.

Nice, we've used this stuff before but our mentor that got it for us left the team a few years back and we never figured out where to get it. Guess I should have figured McMaster would have it.

A word of warning to teams considering it for the first time though: Be careful when using "Industrial strength" variants of dual lock, in our experience, the lock is so strong that the adhesive fails before the lock does. We've actually resorted to using crowbars to remove electrical components that were secured this way in the past.

[juchong]

Originally Posted by pfreivald

We've used "industrial strength" hook-and-loop (Velcro) for mounting all of our pneumatics since at least 2010 and never had a single issue. Why wouldn't you recommend it?

From what I've observed, the cheap, "fuzzy" Velcro keeps things from falling off, but doesn't keep them from moving/flexing. Since robots are expected to go over bumps and traverse rough terrain this year, I would worry about the Velcro failing and a connector coming in contact with the robot frame.

In addition, the more electrical components are allowed to move/shake, the more likely they are to disconnect. Added strain on wires and connectors can make a bad crimp fail or a spring-loaded connector release a wire.

If I were inspecting robots, I would not pass anyone who used only "fuzzy" Velcro to attach their electronics. If "industrial" Velcro was used, I would spot check the components and make sure that nothing was in danger of failure.

[Foster]

Originally Posted by cbale2000

Nice, we've used this stuff before but our mentor that got it for us left the team a few years back and we never figured out where to get it. Guess I should have figured McMaster would have it.

A word of warning to teams considering it for the first time though: Be careful when using "Industrial strength" variants of dual lock, in our experience, the lock is so strong that the adhesive fails before the lock does. We've actually resorted to using crowbars to remove electrical components that were secured this way in the past.

Other places have this stuff way cheaper than McMaster (Amazon is your friend). I've found that the 10lb stuff is pretty good at keeping routers and switches on walls. When I first started, I bought the industrial stuff. The first time I removed the equipment with a sharp tug, I pulled the wallboard off. Granted it was badly installed with only three screws ....

On the other hand, the adhesive comes in temp ranges. So if you are putting it on something that may get hot, you might want to look at things other than the 110F degree versions.

3M Dual Lock site with different part numbers