775 Pro Coupling

[EricH]

Sure you can't use a 1:1 VersaPlanetary?

[Sperkowsky]

Yea... I would use a versaplanetary 1:1 or even 3:1 these guys are faster then you think.

IMO directly mounting to those shafts is a bad idea.

[kbrowncny]

The versa planetary would definitely work, however you must use a set screw to install it. I may be over-cautious, but I am fearing set screws this year because of the nature of this game and I don't want anything to come loose, especially in a high RPM application such as a shooter wheel.

[Sperkowsky]

Originally Posted by kbrowncny

The versa planetary would definitely work, however you must use a set screw to install it. I may be over-cautious, but I am fearing set screws this year because of the nature of this game and I don't want anything to come loose, especially in a high RPM application such as a shooter wheel.

We used a set screw+A shaft key. It doesnt directly key the motor shaft but it does help. You could also cut a small slot in the axle with a dremmel, or lathe and connect it to the adapter with a DIY shaft key. The adapter has a gap so its not an issue.

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by kbrowncny

The versa planetary would definitely work, however you must use a set screw to install it. I may be over-cautious, but I am fearing set screws this year because of the nature of this game and I don't want anything to come loose, especially in a high RPM application such as a shooter wheel.

Think about it this way. No matter what gearing the output of a VP is spinning at, the input will be spinning at the free speed of a motor. If that coupling has held on at high speeds to motors for years, why would it fail now? I'm not saying set screws in general are the best idea, but the VP design is tried and true. The VP will also provide a much better supported output shaft than you would have otherwise.

Originally Posted by Sperkowsky

We used a set screw+A shaft key. It doesnt directly key the motor shaft but it does help. You could also cut a small slot in the axle with a dremmel, or lathe and connect it to the adapter with a DIY shaft key. The adapter has a gap so its not an issue.

This is a horrible idea. How do you cut a slot in a 3mm wide shaft? How big would the slot even be? Maybe 1mm?

[kbrowncny]

Looking to do something like this.

[kbrowncny]

https://picasaweb.google.com/1158296...24994519130514

[R.C.]

Originally Posted by kbrowncny

https://picasaweb.google.com/1158296...24994519130514

If your looking to do that, then its the same as buying the GT2 pulley here:

http://www.wcproducts.net/gt2-timing-pulleys-belts

[kbrowncny]

What are the recommended installation instructions (ie spacing from motor) for the WCP pulley?

I am interested to see it installed and running, I have a fear about the cantilever off of the motor output shaft because there is so little engagement. There is very little info about it on the website.

[R.C.]

Originally Posted by kbrowncny

What are the recommended installation instructions (ie spacing from motor) for the WCP pulley?

I am interested to see it installed and running, I have a fear about the cantilever off of the motor output shaft because there is so little engagement. There is very little info about it on the website.

Your not going to run into an issue with shaft stick out, it is the same as the Banebot 775. 254 & 971 run the 12T pulley on their stuff, you can check out CAD from FRC971 on their site.

You can also email support@wcproducts.net for more info/concerns.

[Richard Wallace]

We were also concerned that 775 motors might not handle side loads well.

We've had good results using 3/8 hex shaft stock (217-3310) to fabricate 5mm bore press-fit shaft adapters for the 775pro. Here is our method: (lathe)

-- rough cut stock ~1 inch long using chop saw or band saw
-- face both ends to give 7/8 inch finished length and break edges
-- center drill
-- drill through #21 (0.159 inch dia)
-- drill about halfway through #9 (0.196 inch dia) <-- this step gives a press fit hole diameter for the 5 mm motor shaft
-- tap the smaller end 10-32
-- using arbor press, align squarely and press motor into large end of adapter

(Note: arbor press ram should only touch the back shaft, not the motor body)

A 3/8" hex bore gear on the adapted motor shaft drives a larger gear on a 1/2" hex output shaft. Both shafts are supported by bearings in a gearbox housing, which we make on a mill using 1x3 rectangular aluminum tube with 1/8 inch wall thickness. The output shaft bearings are installed flanges-in with a 1/8 inch plastic spacer between the gear and one bearing. The motor face mounts to one side of the tube* secured by two M4x10 button head screws, then a spacer and the shaft gear go on, and a 3/8" hex bearing (217-2735) goes in flange-out. A 10-32 x 0.5 inch button head screw and washer keep the bearing in.

Free current draw with this method is less than we saw testing with a Versaplanetary, and the gears are easier to keep lubed. It is also easier to integrate this gearbox into our shooter because the output shaft is also a shooter wheel axle, supported by another bearing on the opposite side. Another benefit is that we can select any of several gear ratios that use the same total number of teeth. That includes options smaller than 3:1, which is lowest ratio available using Versaplanetaries.

---------
*Vent holes in the tube wall, aligned with those in the motor face, are highly recommended.

[kbrowncny]

Rich, Thank you for the input! We are leaning toward that method. I would like to see your setup. Do you happen to have a finished product?

[Richard Wallace]

Originally Posted by kbrowncny

I would like to see your setup. Do you happen to have a finished product?

Is anything on a FIRST robot ever finished?

The setup we are testing now is pictured here. Please let us know what you think, and offer suggestions to improve.

[BoilerMentor]

Originally Posted by Richard Wallace

-- drill about halfway through #9 (0.196 inch dia) <-- [size="2"][b][i]this step gives a press fit hole diameter for the 5 mm motor shaft

We're looking at how to get a 19t 32dp pinion onto our 775Pro shafts for our shooter. My students effectively designed a clone to the AndyMark Cim-Sim, stealing the shaft, cluster gear, and bearings and using a 19t gear from bane bots that was thought to be appropriate. Long story short, that gear has a 5mm bore, but is also 40dp (we think). As of right now the plan is to modify 19t 32dp gears from AM to fit the 775Pro.

My dilemma this morning was related to fixturing the gear, but also whether to use a #10 drill then ream the bore to .1955" or .1960". This gives you either .0007" or .0012" interference. At this size a proper press fit is .0002" to .0014" interference. If I don't have to spend $40 on tooling it wouldn't hurt my feelings though. My only concern is that a slipping pinion might be pretty difficult to diagnose and could be a pretty severe failure mode in a competition environment.

[Richard Wallace]

Originally Posted by BoilerMentor

We're looking at how to get a 19t 32dp pinion onto our 775Pro shafts for our shooter. My students effectively designed a clone to the AndyMark Cim-Sim, stealing the shaft, cluster gear, and bearings and using a 19t gear from bane bots that was thought to be appropriate. Long story short, that gear has a 5mm bore, but is also 40dp (we think). As of right now the plan is to modify 19t 32dp gears from AM to fit the 775Pro.

My dilemma this morning was related to fixturing the gear, but also whether to use a #10 drill then ream the bore to .1955" or .1960". This gives you either .0007" or .0012" interference. At this size a proper press fit is .0002" to .0014" interference. If I don't have to spend $40 on tooling it wouldn't hurt my feelings though. My only concern is that a slipping pinion might be pretty difficult to diagnose and could be a pretty severe failure mode in a competition environment.

I agree with all your points regarding proper interference fit, and reaming is clearly a better method. I think we just got lucky with the #9 drill. Over the past 30 years, I have press fit a lot of motor shafts from 2mm through 17mm diameter and have developed a feel for the forces involved, so I am pretty confident of the results we got on a few motors. I would not use the same method in serial production.

To your question: I'd go with the 0.1955" ream. We will probably do the same when I need to make more components.