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#1
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
It is hard but if you are careful and go back and forth and back and forth you can make the standard chain breaker the OP discussed work but it is definitely a "you have to be patient and you have to develop the knack" type skill.
SO... ...of late, my chain breaker of choice is a Dremel. Seriously. If you take a paint pen and mark the link that needs to be cracked (which you should probably get in the habit of doing anyway) and then you get that link clamped in a vise and then grind off the pins (and part of the plate), you can use a screw driver to pop off the plate and then you're in business. It ain't elegant but you get a nice clean cut with no risk of damaged chain going back on your robot. YMMV. Dr. Joe J. |
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#2
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
ya Dark Soul all the way
you will never look back |
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#3
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
We don't use a commercial chain breaker.
We made a jig to hold the chain in place. The jig is a flat plate of aluminum and has several holes that correspond to the pin spacing. We position the chain and then use a fine point nailset to drive out the pins. Requires a little practice but works well. I would send pic but I'm not at the shop. |
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#4
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
I agree with Dr Joe.
It's quite difficult to find ANSI chain tools in Australia so we use our trusty disc sander and a nail/pin punch to get the job done. It usually takes around minute the break the chain. |
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#5
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
We used a tetrix (FTC) chain break and widened the slots with a band saw. But that was because we didn't have anything else, and we like to steal stuff from our FTC teams when we can.
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#6
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
At the beginning of the season we purchased a chain breaker very similar to the one you found on amazon. I was very disapointed as it broke after a couple of uses. We then switched to using a dremel to grind off the pins and it has worked very well.
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#7
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Re: Good #25 chain breaker?
Here is a team created #25 chain break (our commercial one did not work well, bent the chain and was very difficult to use).
Picture one shows it in action. Picture two show a .1" hole about .75" deep in a 3/8"-16 bolt with lock nut inserted in a 1 1/8 long nut. The cut out in the nut is 3/8" long and 3/8" deep (cut on mill). Picture 3 shows the other 3/8" bolt with a .900" hole drilled about .5" deep with a piece of .900" HHS (like the back of a small drill bit) Loctite in place. We TIG welded a handle on and use this in a small vise. Takes about 20 minutes to create. Works great and fully supports the chain. |
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