New Machine Shop

[asid61]

What is the MT3 collet set for? It it's for the benchtop lathes I recommend moving to a 5c collet chuck instead of the MT3 spindle, as 5c collets allow for sticking stock out the back of the lathe.
I'm not sure you need R8 endmill holders either, as the Bridgeport-style mill you're looking at isn't going to be able to take more than a collet's load anyway. However, a pneumatic toolchager is fantastic for shorter students or just for convenience. It makes using the mill faster than walking over to the drill press.
You'll want vise and table-mount stops for your mill too for milling identical parts.
I generally look for deals on Ebay for non-precision stuff like clamps and stops.

If you buy benchtop mills, make sure they are not round-column. Dovetail column is practically a must due to numerous problems with moving round-columns up and down.

I would skip the horizontal bandsaw if you are already getting bandsaws and a miter saw. The latter two cover all your bases. Miter saws are easier to set up imo as well.

As far as edge finder I use manual, as they are cheap and repeatable. Electronics, while more expensive to be as good, are easier to use.
EDIT: make sure you do get a good indicator though for squaring up your spindle and table and centering holes.

End mills from closing machine shops and the like are my go-to (retired machinists also have good stock) but I highly recommend buying a carbide insert face mill for really nice finishes.

We have a Brown and Sharpe 6" for normal stuff and a 12" Mitutoyo for long stuff. I like both brands, and I think anything will work as long as it's reputable. Used Mitutoyos are really cheap on Ebay, but Brown and Sharpe are more expensive even used. Depending on the precision you're looking for used might be ok.
Dial calipers are easier to get a good measurement out of than digitals for me, as I can see the needle move to the "true" measurement.
I'm not sure you even need micrometers, as they are difficult to read and are usually overkill for FRC. However, a digital 0-1" Mitutoyo is only $40 used, and reads dead-on for shaft diameters.

A quiet air compressor lets people talk while working. I had to work with a really loud one for a couple years, and switching to a quiet one was an immense change.

[snoman]

We just got one of these
http://www.cncplasmacutterinc.com/
Plasma router combo mills aluminum well

[ttakashima]

Thanks for the Reply asid61!

1.Ill look at the 5C collet chuck.

2. The R8 End Mill Holders are for quicker tool changes with tools of the same shank dia. although a collet + power draw bar would be just as quick. Maybe we can save some money here!

3. We are looking at 1 or 2 KURT 690s for the CNC and 1 for the Manual with 5/8 clamp sets for each.

4. I thought about purchasing boring heads but with the CNC I didn't think one would be necessary.

5. Good idea on the dove tail over round column bench top mills, ill look into that once we know what our future funding is going to look like.

6. The horizontal bandsaw is an option due to being safer to operate. We will probably buy an abrasive cutoff saw first though.

7. A carbide insert face mill would be a great idea!

8. Thats 2 for Mitutoyo! Ill look into purchasing Brown and Sharpe calipers too.

9. Yeah, we currently work with a rather loud compressor. This one would be located in a side room out of the way. A quieter compressor is still something ill look for.

Thanks for the advice!

[ttakashima]

@snoman

Would you be willing to share the details on cost/table size that you purchased?

[snoman]

Originally Posted by ttakashima

@snoman

Would you be willing to share the details on cost/table size that you purchased?

See attached

[sanddrag]

Originally Posted by snoman

See attached

That's not bad. Does it work well for you? We're pretty happy with our PlasmaCAM, but oh man I wish we had a water table. People will tell you a plasma makes smoke without one, but you have no idea.... It's so bad. Trust me, you want a water table.

[protoserge]

Originally Posted by sanddrag

That's not bad. Does it work well for you? We're pretty happy with our PlasmaCAM, but oh man I wish we had a water table. People will tell you a plasma makes smoke without one, but you have no idea.... It's so bad. Trust me, you want a water table.

Make sure this danger is understood: http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...ater-table.cfm
QUOTE=ctt956;1537521]I think some people have made some minor adjustments, not sure. I'll try to see if we can get it to cut straight again, though I think part of the problem is Harbor Freight's "high quality" Chinese engineering. Though the vertical bandsaws are great![/quote]

There is a large following for the 4"x6" bandsaw. You should easily find the adjustment methods. It takes about an hour from what I gathered. Also run a nice bi-metal blade. I wish our team had one. Maybe next year.

[frcguy]

Originally Posted by asid61

I would skip the horizontal bandsaw if you are already getting bandsaws and a miter saw. The latter two cover all your bases. Miter saws are easier to set up imo as well.

Agreed. A horizontal bandsaw is nice, but it takes up a lot of space and takes a fair bit longer to set up. We got this compound miter saw and a higher-end non ferrous metal blade and it works great. Super easy to cut whatever angle you need very quick.

[Joey Milia]

Originally Posted by asid61

If you buy benchtop mills, make sure they are not round-column. Dovetail column is practically a must due to numerous problems with moving round-columns up and down.

...

As far as edge finder I use manual, as they are cheap and repeatable. Electronics, while more expensive to be as good, are easier to use.
EDIT: make sure you do get a good indicator though for squaring up your spindle and table and centering holes.

...

We have a Brown and Sharpe 6" for normal stuff and a 12" Mitutoyo for long stuff. I like both brands, and I think anything will work as long as it's reputable. Used Mitutoyos are really cheap on Ebay, but Brown and Sharpe are more expensive even used. Depending on the precision you're looking for used might be ok.
Dial calipers are easier to get a good measurement out of than digitals for me, as I can see the needle move to the "true" measurement.
I'm not sure you even need micrometers, as they are difficult to read and are usually overkill for FRC. However, a digital 0-1" Mitutoyo is only $40 used, and reads dead-on for shaft diameters.

A quiet air compressor lets people talk while working. I had to work with a really loud one for a couple years, and switching to a quiet one was an immense change.

I second all of this.

If your looking into bench top CNC mills look at the Nomad 883 by Carbide 3D, for the price its the best I've seen.

With edge finders I don't see the point in digital, just something else to run out of battery. The standard wigglers are great, Starrett is a reputable maker of those.

For dial calipers go Brown and Sharpe (what I use), they're the best. Starrett dial calipers aren't what they use to be. For digital I like the Mitutoyos.

For a quite compressor I think screw compressors are the way to go. 192 has a Kaeser.

[Steven Smith]

Originally Posted by Joey Milia

I second all of this.

For a quite compressor I think screw compressors are the way to go. 192 has a Kaeser.

One of the Youtube channels I frequent did a walk-around of a Kaeser screw compressor just a few days ago. I've got my eye on one as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDs5dr7whpM

[sanddrag]

We have two of this compressor.First one was installed about 3 and a half years ago, and it's been great since. It's able to keep up with two CNC mills with blow guns and air-powered hand tool usage without a problem.

[Cory]

A rotary screw compressor is not the answer for that equipment mix. Save $5k and get a good quality 2 stage reciprocating compressor that runs at 800 rpm. The 800 rpm ones are significantly quieter than the 1750 or 3450 rpm ones.

[protoserge]

Glacern vises go on sale in November. I love mine.

If you're set on Kurt, buy from Enco on sale if they are covered. There are occasionally 20% sales. There is a 25% off and free shipping (not sure if it applies OCONUS) sale every once in a while. I haven't been on their mailing list long enough to know the pattern. Since you're in Hawaii I don't think their March Machinery Madness sale will be of benefit for free shipping.

I got the team to buy one of the Shars 4" for the small Emco FB mill we have. It is a great vise and the 6" opening is great.

What is wrong with a edge finder like this? I can't see spending a lot on something like this.

Don't get an abrasive cutoff saw if you primarily work aluminum. You can explode the blade cutting aluminum.

[ctt956]

We have a Delta Shopmaster chop saw, as well as a horizontal bandsaw. I'm a rookie this year, but from what I've seen so far, I would say go with a chop saw before a bandsaw. Our bandsaw can be a bit slow and it doesn't always cut straight. The chop saw, which almost everyone on the team seems to prefer, always cuts straight, quickly and easily. I've seen it slice through wood, PVC pipe, a solid round PVC roller thing, and an aluminum pipe. It went through all of that like a hot knife through a stick of butter. You just have to be careful when cutting something too small to clamp one side down, as that piece can(and will!) go flying. As for calipers, from my limited experience with them, I prefer the dial type. Having used both, digital ones are hard to use, IMO.

[protoserge]

Originally Posted by ctt956

We have a Delta Shopmaster chop saw, as well as a horizontal bandsaw. I'm a rookie this year, but from what I've seen so far, I would say go with a chop saw before a bandsaw. Our bandsaw can be a bit slow and it doesn't always cut straight. The chop saw, which almost everyone on the team seems to prefer, always cuts straight, quickly and easily. I've seen it slice through wood, PVC pipe, a solid round PVC roller thing, and an aluminum pipe. It went through all of that like a hot knife through a stick of butter. You just have to be careful when cutting something too small to clamp one side down, as that piece can(and will!) go flying. As for calipers, from my limited experience with them, I prefer the dial type. Having used both, digital ones are hard to use, IMO.

If your bandsaw isn't cutting straight, you need to adjust the guides and bearings. Look up how to properly set it up. I'm sure your team will get good results!