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#1
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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A horizontal is also more likely to have a wider blade, which is going to cut straighter and withstand more blade tension. Most importantly it's going to give you a much straighter cut than a vertical purely because the material is static and the blade is moving. This is important for anything going on a mill/lathe. If you can only buy one though, the vertical is the way to go. |
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#2
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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I would think the only way that is true is if your cut is very close to target material size leaving nothing to further true-up. We've been known to rough drive train plates on the CNC plasma cutter because it's fast but the cuts are nasty. We then clean up on the mill. |
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#3
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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I like horizontal band saws - if I was starting a shop from scratch and could only have one big saw, I would probably get a portable band saw with a table stand for vertical cutting and then a full size horizontal for cutting out stock and whatnot. |
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#4
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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Sometimes based on the size stock you have on hand, you need to hold the cut faces in a vise, not the stock edges. The more parallel they are to each other the easier that is. Sometimes you cut bar stock and you need to stand it up on the edge that was cut. Again, the more perpendicular to the stock edges, the better. When using the lathe sometimes you'll have pieces that are too large in diameter to hold with jaws in their standard configuration and you end up flipping the jaws and holding the part on the stepped portion of the jaws. If your bottom surface sitting against the step on the jaw isn't flat you end up with a lot of runout on the part, which is a PITA. Likewise if you're cutting something too short to be clamped by the full length of the jaws you don't get proper self centering of the part and you need to stick parallels or something else against the face of the chuck and seat your part flat against them. If the part doesn't have a flat face you get the same runout problem. |
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#5
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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However usually if I want 2 or more pieces to be extremely close in size I palatize or stack them and that way any runout is likely uniform. For your lathe example with, I assume is a 4 independent jaw chuck, I can see that you're trying to save an operation. |
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#6
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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I'm referring to a 3 jaw self centering chuck. If you are only clamping onto say 1/4" of length on the part you can easily end up with the part skewed in the jaws. You need to be clamping onto substantially more to guarantee that the stock is coaxial to the jaws (at least without tapping it into alignment). |
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#7
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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Quote:
Last edited by techhelpbb : 10-05-2016 at 15:06. |
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#8
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Re: Workshop/Tools/Parts
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