Drive train help.

[EmileH]

This kit which includes a transmitter and receiver plus a drive chassis might be of interest to you:

http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2552.htm

[roboruler]

Originally Posted by EmileH

This kit which includes a transmitter and receiver plus a drive chassis might be of interest to you:

http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2552.htm

It sounds like you guys are wanting to do this on a low budget.

I'd have a look at some of Hobbykings brushed ESC offerings, it'll end up way cheaper than the compartive Andymark ones( if you don't want the ability to use the parts legally in FRC)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...d_Car_ESC.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Mode_1_.htm l

The hobbyking transmitter is the exact same as the one Andymark sells and is half the price

[Billfred]

Originally Posted by roboruler

It sounds like you guys are wanting to do this on a low budget.

I'd have a look at some of Hobbykings brushed ESC offerings, it'll end up way cheaper than the compartive Andymark ones( if you don't want the ability to use the parts legally in FRC)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...d_Car_ESC.html

Have you verified this will run on 12V? It looks like it's made for 2-cell LiPo packs or 5-6 cell NiMH packs, both of which are 7.X volts.

(full disclosure, I'm typing this from my desk at AndyMark.)

[FrisbeeFunTime]

Originally Posted by Billfred

Have you verified this will run on 12V? It looks like it's made for 2-cell LiPo packs or 5-6 cell NiMH packs, both of which are 7.X volts.

(full disclosure, I'm typing this from my desk at AndyMark.)

It is our intention to run this on 12v so the ESC's he presented would most likely not work. I've seen esc's rated for a 2s lipo run on 12v which resulted in it being permanently damaged and rendered unusable. This expiriene in now way makes it a definite that his suggestion won't work so we ill probs end up emailing hobby king about it.

[DaveL]

As a summer project, we built 3 wood robots using some scrape plywood. It measured 3/4" thick, which meant it was likely called 1".
I think the side were 3" high by 28" long.

Our bots had the same side rails at an aluminum bot, but in the corners we bolted a 1-1/2" square piece of wood. For the third bot we used some scrape aluminum "L" brackets instead of the wood to save space in the corners. The bottom plate was very thin (5mm) plywood with glued on bits of wood. During a high speed head on collision with another wood bot (using only 1 pool noodle for protection) the bottom plate broke its glue joint.

Actually the glue held, but the wood veneer was ripped off. Going forward, I would use more angle aluminum brackets. We made these from scraps of aluminum box sections by cutting them in half (on the diagonal looking from the open end)

Another thing we did was to use chain and mounted the transmission so it could slide up. That way we were able to tension the chains by raising the transmission. The slide was really just slots for the bolts to slide within.

Dave