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Unread 11-07-2016, 00:24
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

I like this. I think it would also be a neat way to do a single speed drive with a PTO, not super clunky like most PTO setups.
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Unread 11-07-2016, 00:49
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by Gregor View Post
I like this. I think it would also be a neat way to do a single speed drive with a PTO, not super clunky like most PTO setups.
I was thinking about making a PTO option of this. With the Versadog it becomes a lot easier too.
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Unread 11-07-2016, 17:56
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

We never had issues with it slipping or jumping or breaking or ever coming off. We just find it very hard to write fast, accurate and repeatable autonomous modes with so much slack in our chain. It gives semi un repeatable results in our vision code when only the front 2 wheels move while the back 4 don't having to make up the distance in chain slack. It would have been much better to just run tensionors from the start.
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Unread 11-07-2016, 19:31
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by Cash4587 View Post
We never had issues with it slipping or jumping or breaking or ever coming off. We just find it very hard to write fast, accurate and repeatable autonomous modes with so much slack in our chain. It gives semi un repeatable results in our vision code when only the front 2 wheels move while the back 4 don't having to make up the distance in chain slack. It would have been much better to just run tensionors from the start.
I see, that's a good reason to run proper tensioning.
How did it cause errors/to what extent? If two wheels are moving, theoretically the whole bot should move anyway. Would direct driving the center wheel help?
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Unread 11-07-2016, 21:56
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by asid61 View Post
I see, that's a good reason to run proper tensioning.
How did it cause errors/to what extent? If two wheels are moving, theoretically the whole bot should move anyway. Would direct driving the center wheel help?
So this year our robot had about 60% of our weight on the front wheels. Direct driving the center wheel or any wheel might have helped. We ran a single gear reduction 12-66t and then a 12-22 #35 chain reduction to the wheel. (We later switched from 12-22t to 12-28t and is much better) In our case, direct driving any wheel may have helped but we really enjoyed this setup. We would get no movement on our robot for about 1/8th of a turn on the back wheel to catch up in chain slack. The whole robot wouldn't move because we had tons of turning scrub also so I guess a few things would have helped. But in any case, the chain slack and slop in the hex shaft really was a pain when trying to tune our code. I guess that's why 971 goes through so much to get all of the slack out of everything and makes custom hex.
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Unread 11-07-2016, 22:51
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by Cash4587 View Post
So this year our robot had about 60% of our weight on the front wheels. Direct driving the center wheel or any wheel might have helped. We ran a single gear reduction 12-66t and then a 12-22 #35 chain reduction to the wheel. (We later switched from 12-22t to 12-28t and is much better) In our case, direct driving any wheel may have helped but we really enjoyed this setup. We would get no movement on our robot for about 1/8th of a turn on the back wheel to catch up in chain slack. The whole robot wouldn't move because we had tons of turning scrub also so I guess a few things would have helped. But in any case, the chain slack and slop in the hex shaft really was a pain when trying to tune our code. I guess that's why 971 goes through so much to get all of the slack out of everything and makes custom hex.
If 60% of your weight was on the front wheels, I would recommend (other things equal) that you drive the front wheels directly; this is ultimately the same reason that West Coast drives the center wheels directly - to make the drive to the most dependable wheels invulnerable to a broken chain/belt.

On the other hand, if 60% of my robot's weight were on the front wheels in a static configuration (and presuming I had at least six wheels), I would be VERY worried about the robot falling on its face in a braking maneuver.
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Unread 12-07-2016, 00:18
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by GeeTwo View Post
On the other hand, if 60% of my robot's weight were on the front wheels in a static configuration (and presuming I had at least six wheels), I would be VERY worried about the robot falling on its face in a braking maneuver.
That is completely dependent on CG height and, given 4587's short robot, probably not a major risk.
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Last edited by MichaelBick : 12-07-2016 at 00:19. Reason: grammar
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Unread 12-07-2016, 23:57
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by GeeTwo View Post
On the other hand, if 60% of my robot's weight were on the front wheels in a static configuration (and presuming I had at least six wheels), I would be VERY worried about the robot falling on its face in a braking maneuver.
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Originally Posted by MichaelBick View Post
That is completely dependent on CG height and, given 4587's short robot, probably not a major risk.
I know it sounds strange, but if this is the case, I would seriously consider not driving the back wheels at all -- save the chain and sprockets and heartache. I might even consider skipping the back wheels and putting some pegs or furniture gliders. Here's why: If 60% of the weight is on the front wheels, the CoG is closer to the front wheels than the middle wheels. If the CoG is low enough that you are "not at major risk" of braking hard enough to tip forward, you are probably "at minimal risk" of ever needing to put weight on the rear wheels, and at "fuggetaboudit" for need to drive those rear wheels.
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Unread 13-07-2016, 00:45
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by GeeTwo View Post
I know it sounds strange, but if this is the case, I would seriously consider not driving the back wheels at all -- save the chain and sprockets and heartache. I might even consider skipping the back wheels and putting some pegs or furniture gliders. Here's why: If 60% of the weight is on the front wheels, the CoG is closer to the front wheels than the middle wheels. If the CoG is low enough that you are "not at major risk" of braking hard enough to tip forward, you are probably "at minimal risk" of ever needing to put weight on the rear wheels, and at "fuggetaboudit" for need to drive those rear wheels.
Interesting idea. From what I can tell, unpowered wheels used to be more common on early FRC drivetrains, but have fallen out of style in the past several years. It would probably work well in this case, but I do see one thing that might be a concern. In a six-wheel drop center (which might or might not be what we're talking about, I don't know 4587's robot), doesn't the robot tip backwards onto the back four wheels when driving forwards? Now I know that the position of the center of gravity affects the tilting of the chassis, but this would be on a case by case basis. If the chassis DOES tilt backwards when driving forwards, not powering the back wheels may make acceleration quite slow.
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Unread 13-07-2016, 01:13
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeeTwo View Post
I know it sounds strange, but if this is the case, I would seriously consider not driving the back wheels at all -- save the chain and sprockets and heartache. I might even consider skipping the back wheels and putting some pegs or furniture gliders. Here's why: If 60% of the weight is on the front wheels, the CoG is closer to the front wheels than the middle wheels. If the CoG is low enough that you are "not at major risk" of braking hard enough to tip forward, you are probably "at minimal risk" of ever needing to put weight on the rear wheels, and at "fuggetaboudit" for need to drive those rear wheels.
The major issue with this (for my team) is pushing matches: for example, during forward pushing you can easily have 100% weight on the back two wheels.
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Unread 13-07-2016, 01:27
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

The back wheels are solely used on defenses. Happy we didn't go 4 wheel.

Last edited by Clayton Summerall : 13-07-2016 at 01:33.
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Unread 13-07-2016, 02:15
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

Having un-powered wheels in your drive train is generally not a good idea. They create friction and make it really, really hard to turn. Replacing them with a caster or some low friction nylon for example, is also not a great idea because this year our back wheels help us get over defenses, and when you put something in place of a wheel that doesn't roll, and hit defenses as hard as we do, it won't turn out so well. Removing wheels and just replacing them would not be as good as just designing a drive train with 4 wheels only. In cases like this year, we needed 6 wheels to not get stuck on defenses so that's what we went with.

When it comes to drive trains we go with something we are confident with. 6wd and 8wd are types we've worked with before and have given great repeatable results. Adding furniture sliders or caster wheels to our drivetrain is probably something we will never consider doing on our drivetrain.
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Unread 13-07-2016, 02:17
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

To OP:

I recognize that this is a mostly theoretical drive train but have you thought about how you would remove a CIM, if it were necessary?
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Unread 13-07-2016, 02:34
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by Bryce2471 View Post
To OP:

I recognize that this is a mostly theoretical drive train but have you thought about how you would remove a CIM, if it were necessary?
It looks like he oriented the motors in a way that you can access the bolts around the gears. But I am just assuming so I could be wrong.
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Unread 13-07-2016, 02:40
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Re: pic: ABS-122, shifter-in-tube chassis

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Originally Posted by Bryce2471 View Post
To OP:

I recognize that this is a mostly theoretical drive train but have you thought about how you would remove a CIM, if it were necessary?
I actually added a lightening pattern later such that a ball end allen key can access the bolts to remove the CIMs. As it stands right now, removing the gear in between the two CIMs would suffice to remove them.
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