What COTS parts would you like to see?

[Lil' Lavery]

VexPro gussets (namely t-gussets) with the pre-drilled holes aligned at a 1/2" offset. Right now the t-gussets support aligning versa frame rails to each other ever 1", but having a gusset option like this would allow alignment options every 1/2". Obviously there are many easy workarounds to achieve the same end result with existing products, but "native" support of those configurations would be useful.

[Chris is me]

It's probably too late for this, but I'd be really happy if there were COTS 32mm wide HTD pulleys available from Vex. Right now if you run double 15s you need two separate 18mm pulleys, and that's just annoying. I don't like making pulleys from stock. Would be best if we could just buy 'em. 9mm wide belts in the drive is often pushing it anyway.

[Oblarg]

Taper-lock hubs.

I found some HTD pulleys using this style of bushing lying around our shop last year, and they're basically the most convenient thing ever. If FRC suppliers could start making stuff that uses this in lieu of set-screws, it'd be very nice.

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by Oblarg

Taper-lock hubs.

I found some HTD pulleys using this style of bushing lying around our shop last year, and they're basically the most convenient thing ever. If FRC suppliers could start making stuff that uses this in lieu of set-screws, it'd be very nice.

We use these on keyless bushings a lot in industry (more often keyless bushings).

Clamping interfaces are a great way to do things, but I'm unsure if they'd come in cheap enough for the average FRC customer.

Would love to get them though!

[nuclearnerd]

I love this thread. I thought of another since my last suggestion:
Gearboxes with hex-bore 3rd stages. Imagine how much easier replacing a gearbox would be if you could leave the drive train all connected and just slip the gearbox off the final drive shaft?

[marshall]

Originally Posted by nuclearnerd

I love this thread. I thought of another since my last suggestion:
Gearboxes with hex-bore 3rd stages. Imagine how much easier replacing a gearbox would be if you could leave the drive train all connected and just slip the gearbox off the final drive shaft?

We've been kind of doing that for a few years with the AM ToughBoxes and using the same style of mounting that the kit chassis uses. You can pull the gearbox without pulling the drivetrain with it. Kind of nice.

That being said, the ability to place any arbitrary 1/2" hex output shaft would be nice.

[Oblarg]

Originally Posted by nuclearnerd

I love this thread. I thought of another since my last suggestion:
Gearboxes with hex-bore 3rd stages. Imagine how much easier replacing a gearbox would be if you could leave the drive train all connected and just slip the gearbox off the final drive shaft?

I designed (and 4464 constructed) a gearbox like this a couple years ago, and it was indeed fairly convenient. The only problem is that it is less-conducive to WCD-style drives, since you need to support the output shaft separately.

[nuclearnerd]

Originally Posted by Oblarg

I designed (and 4464 constructed) a gearbox like this a couple years ago, and it was indeed fairly convenient. The only problem is that it is less-conducive to WCD-style drives, since you need to support the output shaft separately.

Why would that be difficult? Center wheel supported by hex shaft in bearing blocks, same as per wheels. Hex bore gearbox then slips over hex shaft on the inside of the frame.

If you're really clever, you could put the gearbox on a fourth jack shaft between wheels, and reverse the mounting so that the mounting bolts are accessible, and the gearbox slides off the shaft outward from the frame, same as the wheels. That would be amazing!

[GeeTwo]

Originally Posted by Lil' Lavery

VexPro gussets (namely t-gussets) with the pre-drilled holes aligned at a 1/2" offset. Right now the t-gussets support aligning versa frame rails to each other ever 1", but having a gusset option like this would allow alignment options every 1/2". Obviously there are many easy workarounds to achieve the same end result with existing products, but "native" support of those configurations would be useful.

??
Both the VersaFrame T gusset and the VersaChassis gussets have holes every 1/2". Did you mean a 1/4" offset?

A tool to punch holes in tread for the alligator clips would be great - we mangled about a quarter of our clips, and half of the other three-quarters aren't quite right. The ideal form of this tool would have a ledge for the setback and small hole punches (not awls) to make the holes.

A miter box for versaframe to help put the hacksaw exactly where it should be for square, 30 degree, 45 degree, and 60 degree miters.

VF Gussets for 37 degree and 53 degree angles (that is, the acute angles of a 3-4-5 triangle). And a miter box for that, too.

[Oblarg]

Originally Posted by nuclearnerd

Why would that be difficult? Center wheel supported by hex shaft in bearing blocks, same as per wheels. Hex bore gearbox then slips over hex shaft on the inside of the frame.

If you're really clever, you could put the gearbox on a fourth jack shaft between wheels, and reverse the mounting so that the mounting bolts are accessible, and the gearbox slides off the shaft outward from the frame, same as the wheels. That would be amazing!

It's certainly doable, but it's not nearly as trivial as simply bolting the gearbox in place as is done in an ordinary WCD (you have to leave space for the second bearing and whatever hex bore coupler you're using as an output).

[nuclearnerd]

[quote=Oblarg;1607585(you have to leave space for the second bearing and whatever hex bore coupler you're using as an output).[/QUOTE]

No that's just the thing. I don't want a coupling, I want a hex bore all the way through the gearbox, supported by internal bearings, so it is just a bolt-on operation.

[marshall]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

A tool to punch holes in tread for the alligator clips would be great - we mangled about a quarter of our clips, and half of the other three-quarters aren't quite right. The ideal form of this tool would have a ledge for the setback and small hole punches (not awls) to make the holes.

We gave up on those aggravating clips years ago and switched over to rivets... which come with their own problems but we find them easier than the clips to deal with.

[Oblarg]

Originally Posted by nuclearnerd

No that's just the thing. I don't want a coupling, I want a hex bore all the way through the gearbox, supported by internal bearings, so it is just a bolt-on operation.

Still need to leave room for the second bearing on the output shaft, though.

[GeeTwo]

Originally Posted by marshall

We gave up on those aggravating clips years ago and switched over to rivets... which come with their own problems but we find them easier than the clips to deal with.

What wheels do you use, and what size (bore and length) rivets? Which style tread is this with?

At the end of Red Stick Rumble, we wound up wiring the (pebble top) tread on with steel wire wrapped around the wheel and tread in about six places, which seemed to work better than anything we had done all season. Failing a good way to secure clips, we were already planning that in a situation like this year we would go with "solid rubber" wheels (e.g. colsons, or kit wheels from 2010, 2015, or 2016), and carving tread if needed, or the wiring solution. We'll have to try some rivets.