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#1
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Rivnut Tool
My team has been using rivnuts for the past couple years and we love them. I was wondering if any other teams use them and if so what tool do they use to put them in. We currently use a hand powered rivnut gun https://www.grainger.com/product/POP...AS01?$smthumb$
It works great but is hard on your hands after a while and prone to lots of error. Has anyone used an power tool rivnut gun? |
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#2
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Think about what the rivnut is doing, and how you can make your own tool.
Drill a close fit clearance hole for the size you are using in a piece of thicker steel. Put a bolt through the hole, screw the rivnut on the other side so it's tight. Place the rivnut in the mounting hole where you want it and use a powered drill to turn the bolt. Tightening the bolt will pull the rivnut bending portion tight to the mounting hole. |
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#3
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Re: Rivnut Tool
If we need to put more than just a few, we use a pneumatic gun.
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#4
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Re: Rivnut Tool
We've always used a wrench-driven tool, McMaster PN 96349A380.
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#5
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Does this work for the non-self aligning rivet nuts?
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#6
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Initial results of rivnut pullout testing: (Due to budget constraints, only doing 10-32 steel thin-wall large flange inserts this year; if we're happy with the results, we'll expand our options next year).
I drilled a 19/64" hole using a drill press and inserted an SKL 10-32-130 steel thin nut with large flange into each of three pieces of aluminium:
I then centered a 1/2" hex nut over the rivnut (large enough hole for the rivet to pass freely), added three steel 1/16" thick fender washers, and inserted a 1" stainless 10-32 cap screw (allen drive). I did not have a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter handy, so I could not use my torque wrench, so I used my shortest 1/4" ratchet driver. In each case, I tightened with my index finger and thumb against the adapter socket. In each case, I was using roughly the same amount of torque (to within perhaps 50%) at failure. I shall repeat these tests with an adapter so I can measure torque, and with the longer rivnuts in coming days. Each setup reached normal (tee-handle) torque with no noticeable deformation or stress relief (that is, yielding or breakage) of any part. On applying additional torque to failure, each case had a somewhat different failure mode. Consult the attached image for clarification. 1/8" bar - the bar did not noticeably deform on a large scale, but the small crimped area of the rivnut reamed its way through the aluminum to a depth of about 0.1" (I was able to put the versaframe tubing wall between the stock and rivet flange with no difficulty) when the machine screw sheared at the head end of the threads. Because the failure was through reaming not bending, I expect that if the force had not been applied normally to the surface, far less force would have been required to pull the insert from the material. I definitely intend that we shall use the longer .225 rivets for aluminum of this thickness. In steel, it is entirely possible that the stock would have held the rivnut to a rather greater pull out force. 0.1" Vex tubing: The crimped area of the rivnut was adequate to hold in the aluminum. However, the wall of the tubing was deformed (volcano style) until the hole was large enough for the insert to be pulled completely clear of the tubing. It appears that a longer rivnut would provide minimal additional capacity, though I shall test this when the longer inserts arrive. 1/16" plywood edging: The aluminum yielded "volcano style" to a height of 1/16" on one side and 7/64" on the other, then the machine screw broke at the top of the treads on the insert, presumably from the bending torque. Curiously, the VF thick wall tubing deformed much farther than the hardware store grade aluminum bar and plywood edging. Edit/Addition: Quote:
Last edited by GeeTwo : 12-29-2016 at 12:42 AM. |
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#7
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Not to get too off-topic, but as someone who had never even heard of Rivnuts before seeing this thread, I'm curious... What are the actual benefits of using a Rivnut? Most of the application examples I've seen so far look like it would have been far simpler and faster to just use a regular bolt+locknut.
You don't appear to be saving space since the rivnuts still stick out, and for that matter the rivnuts also appear to create an additional space on the front side of the material that wouldn't have otherwise been there. Am I missing something here? ![]() |
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#8
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Quote:
My team has used rivnuts a few times in the past. This year we used them to attach our main breaker because the frame member we wanted to attach it to was surrounded by other components so we couldn't get a wrench behind it to hold a nut. There was probably another way that would have worked just as well, but we have found that aluminum rivnuts work well and are fairly easy to install for low-load applications. We have also used steel rivnuts for higher load applications, but they tend to be harder to install (and remove when they inevitably break) and not be as strong as a regular nut. |
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#9
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Quote:
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#10
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Quote:
Please don't buy hardware store aluminum. Please. |
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#11
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Quote:
Gummy? Would you please elaborate? |
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#12
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Re: Rivnut Tool
When you machine 6063 Aluminum the chips tend to reform and stick on your end mills and other cutters.
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#13
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Re: Rivnut Tool
The longer (.225") rivnuts arrived a couple of days ago, and I spent some time today in testing. I'm planning a white paper to be out before kickoff, but here's the gouge:
Bottom line: Use the longer (.225) rivnuts in 0.1" and thicker material. TBD if a spacer or gusset will make mounts in VF thick wall tubing more secure. Caveats: Due to budget limitations, we decided to try rivnuts this year in a very limited case. As we use 10-32 bolts for the majority of our structural work, this was the single thread we decided to experiment with this year. Thanks. I have noted that sometimes holes drilled in 6063 are not as large as the drill bit would indicate; I presume this is somehow related to "gumminess". Last edited by GeeTwo : 12-31-2016 at 11:07 PM. |
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#14
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Geetwo,
Help me understand your test. It seems that you are torquing the screw in the mounted rivnet to see when it will fail/stripout, is this the case? Considering that the recommended torque for a typical 10X32 screw application is in the 30 In Lbs range, reaching from 48 to 80 In Lbs in most of the material is fairly impressive. http://www.federalscrewproducts.com/torque-chart.htm |
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#15
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Re: Rivnut Tool
Quote:
I had already noticed that the stainless machine screws supported several times the rated torque, even a good bit over grade 8. What I found even more impressive was that all of the shear failures occurred at the same torque to within about 10% (my measuring precision with this tool at that torque). Further the torque on the threaded portion was probably quite a bit less than the torque I was applying, due to friction between the head of the screw and the large washers. Last edited by GeeTwo : 01-01-2017 at 10:33 AM. |
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