Recommendations for Restoring Router

[sanddrag]

Any pics of this thing?

[wireties]

Originally Posted by sanddrag

Any pics of this thing?

I'm working in Arizona this week. I'll try to get somebody to take a pic or three.

[InFlight]

For smaller items such as rusty gears; electrolysis cleanup is very simple, and avoids all the acidic chemicals.

You can probably find lots of instructions out there.

You simply use a plastic tub of water and baking soda solution. You attach the red lead of a battery charger to a sacrificial anode (steel sheet metal). Attach the black lead to your part and make sure their no direct contact. The rust will all be essentially converted back to the base metal, but some will be in the form small loose particles.

Clean it up with fine steel wool & WD-40, or some other polishing method.

[wireties]

Shows the rust on the gears, sprockets and chains ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNuUPz7B...y=buchanan4799

The entire machine ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNuUOs8B...y=buchanan4799

[RoboChair]

Originally Posted by wireties

Shows the rust on the gears, sprockets and chains ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNuUPz7B...y=buchanan4799

The entire machine ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNuUOs8B...y=buchanan4799

Well, I'm jealous.

The rust doesn't look so bad really, scotch-brite and some oil should clean it up nicely, maybe a wire brush too. Replace the chain if you feel so inclined.

[AdamHeard]

What is the power rating on the servos?

It might be more cost effective (and definitely easier), to use Teknic "stepper killer" motors (400W is their largest). These are a servo and drive integrated into a single unit, and just run off step-dir pulses. Really takes a lot of work out of the setup for anyone new to the area. We're using them as the XYZ servos on a knee mill we've converted, and then traditional servos with drives for our router project.

If you want to stick w/ existing servos and do new drives, I can help you with that. I spec this stuff all the time.

[wireties]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

What is the power rating on the servos?

It might be more cost effective (and definitely easier), to use Teknic "stepper killer" motors (400W is their largest). These are a servo and drive integrated into a single unit, and just run off step-dir pulses. Really takes a lot of work out of the setup for anyone new to the area. We're using them as the XYZ servos on a knee mill we've converted, and then traditional servos with drives for our router project.

If you want to stick w/ existing servos and do new drives, I can help you with that. I spec this stuff all the time.

None of the controls came with the machine. It has these motors on it: MTS-30M4-48
Ferrite Brushed DC Servo Motor
MAX - 3000 RPM 140V 37A
Stall 6.8A (weird)
NEMA-42 frame with MS connector

I think 30A/48V drives will work? We moved the axis easily with a 12V battery and the franken-drill we used to test FRC stuff. I E-bayed a few DC-DC drivers and a giant power supply - gonna try it next week.

[wireties]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

It might be more cost effective (and definitely easier), to use Teknic "stepper killer" motors (400W is their largest).

How much is the big one? 400W might be cutting it close, not sure ...

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by wireties

How much is the big one? 400W might be cutting it close, not sure ...

There is some markup from distributors, but the $387 price here is ballpark.

https://www.teknic.com/model-info/CPM-SDSK-3432S-RLN/

They will shave a lot of time off the project potentially, but will cost some money. They will likely cost the same or less as quality servo drives for your existing motors (which will still require lots of setup).

[sanddrag]

For rust removal, I can confirm that electrolysis works well. Use "washing soda" instead of baking soda if you can, and use the cheapest brand available without much other stuff in it. I think Sodium Carbonate is what you want, and baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, or maybe I have that backwards. A 6 Amp Schumacher manual (not automatic) charger works well as the power supply, as does an ATX computer power supply. Use any scrap steel for the electrodes, and I recommend more than one electrode.

[Brian Selle]

If your Ebay drives don't work out, check out Advanced Motions Controls http://www.a-m-c.com/index.html. I used their drives to replace several on my mill at a fraction of the cost of the original Anilam units. Their engineering support was awesome in helping select the drives and then with follow up support to get everything setup and running. They also give big discounts to FRC teams.

[wireties]

Originally Posted by Brian Selle

If your Ebay drives don't work out, check out Advanced Motions Controls http://www.a-m-c.com/index.html. I used their drives to replace several on my mill at a fraction of the cost of the original Anilam units. Their engineering support was awesome in helping select the drives and then with follow up support to get everything setup and running. They also give big discounts to FRC teams.

I bought five old AMCs on EBay! Hopefully they work!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Mot...AOSw~oFXFss I

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by wireties

I bought five old AMCs on EBay! Hopefully they work!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Mot...AOSw~oFXFss I

These can be a good choice if you run the right controller (was going to recommend AMC like Brian if you insisted on buying some).

What controller are you planning on running w/ Linux CNC?

Do the motors have encoders or resolvers on them right now?

It sounds like you know what you're doing, and are on the right path. It's certainly more labor intensive to do what you're doing, but you'll end up with a better system.

[InFlight]

Originally Posted by sanddrag

For rust removal, I can confirm that electrolysis works well. Use "washing soda" instead of baking soda if you can, and use the cheapest brand available without much other stuff in it. I think Sodium Carbonate is what you want, and baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, or maybe I have that backwards. A 6 Amp Schumacher manual (not automatic) charger works well as the power supply, as does an ATX computer power supply. Use any scrap steel for the electrodes, and I recommend more than one electrode.

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) is NaHCO3, which in water is Na+ and HCO3- ions.

Sodium Carbonate is Na2CO3, which in water is 2Na+ and CO3-- ions.

Sodium Carnonate is a very strong caustic base (pH 11); where baking soda has a pH around 8. The purpose of either is just to be an electrolyte. The compounds don't take part in actual reaction.

Baking soda might take slightly longer, but it's solution is far safer to handle and dispose with afterwards. As a bonus, most people that bake will already have some at home.

[Brian Selle]

How about this Keith...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7GoRQBvghk