New AndyMark Product Game Hint???

[Knufire]

Originally Posted by Cothron Theiss

Ok, so does anyone have any recommendations for shooter wheels that aren't $30 each? Are Colsons the best cheap alternative?

Man, what's the point of teaser videos if nobody looks closely at them.

[Cothron Theiss]

Originally Posted by Knufire

Man, what's the point of teaser videos if nobody looks closely at them.

Are you referring to this wheel in the AndyMark teaser? That hex bore looks pretty small. Is that a wheel AndyMark just had laying around, or do you think that's an upcoming product?

[ollien]

Originally Posted by Knufire

Man, what's the point of teaser videos if nobody looks closely at them.

Hm... What's that plastic bit in the middle of the wheel? I hope it has some way to interface with a hex shaft nicely.

[Cothron Theiss]

Originally Posted by ollien

Hm... What's that plastic bit in the middle of the wheel? I hope it has some way to interface with a hex shaft nicely.

It looks to me like a .375 or even .25" hex bore.

[pilleya]

Originally Posted by Cothron Theiss

It looks to me like a .375 or even .25" hex bore.

Looks like it is the FTC bolt pattern so probably 6mm round or D bore with 6-32 bolts on a 16mm bolt circle. Most likely compatible with the new AM Nubs: http://www.andymark.com/AndyMark-Nub-p/am-nub.htm

[Richard Wallace]

Originally Posted by pilleya

Looks like it is the FTC bolt pattern so probably 6mm round or D bore with 6-32 bolts on a 16mm bolt circle. Most likely compatible with the new AM Nubs: http://www.andymark.com/AndyMark-Nub-p/am-nub.htm

I think you are right. That is likely an 8 mm (5/16") hex bore, so a nub would pilot in it.

[ollien]

Originally Posted by Richard Wallace

I think you are right. That is likely an 8 mm (5/16") hex bore, so a nub would pilot in it.

Doesn't look like there's a nice way to adapt this to hex though :/

[Richard Wallace]

Originally Posted by ollien

Doesn't look like there's a nice way to adapt this to hex though :/

What "this" are you referring to?

I was looking at the hex bore in the white plastic hub. It appears to be 8 mm or 5/16" across the flats. If so, it will pilot on a nub's 8 mm boss. It also seems to have the 16 mm circle pattern of four holes that would suit a #6 screw.

So you could drive the wheel using 6 mm shaft through a nub, or you could drive it directly using 8 mm (5/16") hex shaft.

Or were you thinking about 3/8" hex?

[pilleya]

Originally Posted by ollien

Doesn't look like there's a nice way to adapt this to hex though :/

Definitely not enough meat in the center to be able broach out to 1/2inch hex. The holes on the 16mm bolt circle would also clash with the points of the shaft.

Surely if you need to adapt it to use it, you might as well just make a hub from scratch.

[Lireal]

Originally Posted by ollien

Doesn't look like there's a nice way to adapt this to hex though :/

It looks like there should be enough clearance to broach it.

[pilleya]

Originally Posted by Lireal

It looks like there should be enough clearance to broach it.

It would end up looking like this if you tried to broach it to 1/2inch hex.

[Cory]

Originally Posted by pilleya

It would end up looking like this if you tried to broach it to 1/2inch hex.

That would work just fine.

[WSiggs]

Originally Posted by Knufire

Man, what's the point of teaser videos if nobody looks closely at them.

Is there something in the FRC teaser we have all been missing? Something in the AM twitter "teaser"? Is this whole discussion of shooters useless because there's something obvious we're missing?

[Knufire]

Originally Posted by WSiggs

Is there something in the FRC teaser we have all been missing? Something in the AM twitter "teaser"? Is this whole discussion of shooters useless because there's something obvious we're missing?

Nah, I was just referring to the wheel that looked very similar to the McMaster sure-grip wheels that were the topic of conversation at the time.

[ratdude747]

Originally Posted by Richard Wallace

There is a very old principle of engineering at work here:

When the print does not match the part, change the print. The part is always right.

(somewhat off-topic: )

Or at my company, if the drawing doesn't match the CAD, change the drawing as CAD is master (unless the marketing department tosses back one's plans to make said part because "the CAD is wrong" ).

Sadly in manufacturing as supplier (in my case, to Toyota), that old principle doesn't fly for parts being sold to a customer. If you're not meeting the spec, too bad, no good. We've had to toss hundreds of trial parts over changed drawings and related sillyness... but they're the customer, and they're always (usually) right.