|
|
|
![]() |
|
|||||||
|
||||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Bearing Blocks/Chain Tensioning
Quote:
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Bearing Blocks/Chain Tensioning
If the chain isn't skipping over the sprocket when you apply load to it, then the tensioner is doing its job.
|
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Bearing Blocks/Chain Tensioning
Could you also use VersaBlock with a cam instead? We're also fairly new to chain and lack a mill, but were planning on using the cams instead of a chain tensioner. Is one better than the other?
http://www.vexrobotics.com/bearingblocks-g.html (And as a secondary request, if anyone has a picture with a VersaBlock and WCP Cam installed, that'd be much appreciated. It's hard to tell how the CAM mates with the VersaBlock online.) |
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: Bearing Blocks/Chain Tensioning
Quote:
Under tech specs -> drawings -> cam and versablock |
|
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: Bearing Blocks/Chain Tensioning
Quote:
Quote:
And yes, we did fiddle with the distance until we had an integer number of links. It's better if you aim for an even integer number of links. Miles better. Half links are the devil. |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Bearing Blocks/Chain Tensioning
You can usually tell if chain is tensioned correctly just by moving the strung chain up and down. It should never be too tight in that you can't move it at all. But it shouldn't be sagging on its own.
I, depending on the center distance and size of sprockets, allow for around a third to half an inch of flexibility in either direction (up and down). I usually allow less flexibility with smaller sprockets and a shorter center distance, and more flexibility for large sprockets with a longer center distance. With that ideology, I haven't experienced any chain issues. However, if people have done more scientific testing that disagrees me, I am willing to change my ways. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|