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M.Krass
I finally found this thread - took a long time to read through all of it (i wish you would have PM'd me :^) ] first off, I love what you have done with the idea - you've really taken the ball and run with it here. second - I believe the idea is sound and very clean as you have implemented it. Ive taken note of some of the objections in the thread, but I dont think any of them are serious problems third - I have only one suggestion to make the system better. In your first drawing you show the mating surfaces, the part that will catch and transfer power when the clutch locks, at 90° relative to the clutch face. Id recommend you put an angle in there, so that, when the clutch engages, the two halves pull themselves together - a little bit of the spiral, but in the opposite direction - then as soon as it starts to catch, it will pull itself together tight, not depending on the pressure of the spring to engage fully and that brings us to one of the repeated objections - noise? clatter? I dont think so. When you ride a ten speed bike, and stop pedalling, is the clatter from the one way clutch in the back wheel deafening? No! does that clutch inside the gear assembly wear out frequently? have you EVER had one wear out on you? no With that little bit of back angle on the catching surfaces, the spring that pushes them together can be very soft - remember, this is only going to engage at very low rpms, and once the edge catches, they will 'screw' themselves together (if you angle that surface a little like I mentioned above). As for the SW control problem, thats simple. You dont want to lean on the high speed motor when? when the clutch is engaged when is the clutch engaged? when its pulled together! it would be simple to ride a contact switch on the back side of the moving part of the clutch, and when its disengaged, the clutch is pushed back a little, the switch closed and SW knows its time to allow serious power to be applied to the high speed motor, and if you want, to power off the low speed motor. I think some people are interpreting the concept behind this wrong - dont think of it as a traditional automatic transmission, with each 'gear' covering half the operation range. Design the high speed motor and gear ratio so the bot will drive the way you want, as if it were the only motor - dont gear it up so high that the bot cannot start without popping the 40A breakers then design the low speed transmission geared down so low, that you can spin your tires if you want to - it might have a top speed of 1mph which is what you want in a shoving match - kinetic friction has no knowledge of how fast a wheel is slipping on the carpet - once it starts to slip, the force you are able to apply is the same, no matter how fast you spin the wheels so you could have a bot that drives 'normally' in both directions, is pretty quick on the playfield but when you want to push, you have the all the torque you need (ie, once you start spinning your wheels, thats all you need) Nicely done! I really like it. :c) |
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