Chain Tensioner?

[Cory]

what theyre saying is if you mount your sprockets and shafts in a slotted piece of material, you can slide them in the slot, creating more tension. Or, you can mount an idler sprocket in a set of vertical slots, allowing you to tension it by pushing the idler up, rather than pushing the drive sprockets out.

Cory

[ErikJ]

Something our teams have done in the past is use an adjustable piece of delrin or HDPE as a tensioner. The simpliest of these was just a piece of round stock with a hole drilled through, off center. The chain runs over this piece, and by rotating it you can adjust the tension (since the hole is off center you've got this cam sort of motion going on). Sure you've just added some losses into the system, but it doesn't get much simpler than a piece of round stock cut to length, 3 holes (2 chassis pieces and a delrin) and a fastner. We've used a few variations on this over the years, but that was the one I liked the best. You have to keep an eye on it in case the tension from the chain causes the piece to rotate the opposite way and loosen the chain, but that's a simple fix.

[Dick Linn]

If you have a fixed-wheelbase 4 wheel drive system, the delrin post works fine. There are also spring-loaded tensioners available.

If you have a simple 2 wheel drive using the drill motors and sprockets, mounting the entiire drill motor/tranny'small gear on a plate works great. You can either slot the holes in the plates or stack washers under the plate to raise it higher. I like the latter because it can't slip and you don't have to cut/file slots. It does require removing the chain to add washers unless you cut out a slot in the washers.

Use #35 chain and keep it short to minimize the need to retension. Avoid half links.

[Max Lobovsky]

Originally Posted by Dick Linn

Use #35 chain and keep it short to minimize the need to retension. Avoid half links.

Any reason for avoiding them? It wont be too hard to have a slightly adjustable wheelbase in our design, but i thought it would be simpler to take just put in or remove a half link.

How long will this stretching take? Will the majority occur during practice so we can have the robot properly trimmed before the competition?

[Al Skierkiewicz]

Originally Posted by maxlobovsky

Any reason for avoiding them? It wont be too hard to have a slightly adjustable wheelbase in our design, but i thought it would be simpler to take just put in or remove a half link.

How long will this stretching take? Will the majority occur during practice so we can have the robot properly trimmed before the competition?

Max,
You are going to want to check it regularly and make adjustment as needed. For short runs the off center drilled delrin post is the easiest to adjust, for longer runs slotted base seems to work well. In both cases, you have to be sure that the hardware is locked down. If it loosens in a match, the chain flys off.

[Dick Linn]

Originally Posted by maxlobovsky

Any reason for avoiding them? It wont be too hard to have a slightly adjustable wheelbase in our design, but i thought it would be simpler to take just put in or remove a half link.

How long will this stretching take? Will the majority occur during practice so we can have the robot properly trimmed before the competition?

Half-links (single pitch offset links) tend to be weak. There are double-pitch offset links that are stronger. See http://www.diamondchain.com/techfaqs.asp items 17 and 18

If you are using #35 chain and do a good bit of practice, a lot of the stretching should happen before you get to the regionals. However, use a good chain lube periodically and watch the tensioning. Use of a very small sprocket close to a large one (a la 10:45) will require close attention to prevent the chain skipping off. See item #2 in the Diamond tech facts.

Also see this collection of facts, drawings and application notes: http://www.drivesinc.com/roller-PDFs/rollr-enginfo.pdf