pic: 1067 electronics

[CD47-Bot]

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[dez250]

Originally Posted by CD47-Bot

Thread created automatically to discuss this image in the Picture Gallery.

Now since only 2; 40 amp breakers are in use, what combination of the 2 drill motors and 2 cim motors are you using???

[jacob_dilles]

it looks great... just make sure you can get to your program and tether ports! man i wish i had that much room to lay the electronics out! keep up the good work

[pras870]

I really don't see how you can get the programming/tether cables into the controller with those cables going to the speed controllers there (granted it may jsut be a bad angle). Also on the main breaker, it doesn't look like you'll have an easy time getting to the reset switch, which FIRST officials always makes a big deal about.

[Noah Melamed]

I also noticed that your HI-AMP breaker switch is covered. Thats against the rules. It was my understanding that the breaker needed to be uncovered and easily accesible. Im also not posotive but your modification of the MAXI fuse block may also be considered tampering with a component and be against the rules

[dez250]

Originally Posted by Noah Melamed

I also noticed that your HI-AMP breaker switch is covered. Thats against the rules. It was my understanding that the breaker needed to be uncovered and easily accesible. Im also not posotive but your modification of the MAXI fuse block may also be considered tampering with a component and be against the rules

First stated to save weight, you may remove some of the fuse panels on the maxi panel breaker, they each connect by 2 or 4 screws on the bottom side. At competition, you should always have your removed panels for replacment.

[Frank(Aflak)]

Originally Posted by dez250

First stated to save weight, you may remove some of the fuse panels on the maxi panel breaker, they each connect by 2 or 4 screws on the bottom side. At competition, you should always have your removed panels for replacment.

Those (copper? Brass?) things in the fues block are HEAVY!

If you seeo ur other pics, you will notice that we are using 2x drill and 0x CIM this year, and so we took them out. We also found out that running the black wires through the empty slots in the fuseblock was the most elegant and shortest way to do it . . . a win-win, especially since its legal.

About those program/tether ports: the wires are near enough the board that we can get to them, and they are on the side which makes access really really easy.

About the switch: I don't know why there isn't a hole over it now. There will be soon.

[ESchneider]

That looks a little like ours. We have a very small space to fit all our electronics. Me and our electronics team were able to design a three level tower for all the electronics and robot controller. We have maybe a cubic foot of space for the compressor, battery, tanks, etc.

[jacob_dilles]

Our electronics looks similar ( we didnt do as neat of a job with the holes ) but its in 3 layers. RC, powerblock, and main breaker on top, then 5 victors, our ground stud** and the big brass 40 amp fuse block on the second layer, and the third layer has 4 spikes, the main fuse block, and the 7.2 volt battery. the whole thing is like 12x10x11", which is less then a sqare foot. however the battery and compresser got delegated to the chasies team, so there not my problem .

**ground stud. when i say ground stud, i meen a piece of angle aluminum that i drilled a bunch of holes in. is the "ground stud" an essental piece? it would be a pain to redo it now, and i see no added electrical benifit. actualy the system i have now can deffenetly carry the current.

[Matt Leese]

Originally Posted by jacob_dilles

**ground stud. when i say ground stud, i meen a piece of angle aluminum that i drilled a bunch of holes in. is the "ground stud" an essental piece? it would be a pain to redo it now, and i see no added electrical benifit. actualy the system i have now can deffenetly carry the current.

While I can't get the wiring diagram to load to verify my statement, you are only allowed to wire the robot as shown in the wiring diagram. Given that the ground stud is in the wiring diagram, you do have to use the one that is provided. I doubt that your custom ground stud would pass inspection. While it may be a pain to change it, you probably need to be safe.

Matt

[Frank(Aflak)]

Originally Posted by Matt Leese

While I can't get the wiring diagram to load to verify my statement, you are only allowed to wire the robot as shown in the wiring diagram. Given that the ground stud is in the wiring diagram, you do have to use the one that is provided. I doubt that your custom ground stud would pass inspection. While it may be a pain to change it, you probably need to be safe.

Matt

Yeah, you definatly can't use just angle bracket for your ground stud.

Besides, aluminum isn't a great conductor, you are introducing extra resistance into your system that *could* cause problems.

I was under the impression that you weren't allowed to do that much tampering (let alone substitution) in your control setup.