pressure regulator

[blindguyinanorg]

our 120 pressure regulator is only letting us put in 60 - 80 psi. ive turned the nob all the way till it clicks. i know its not my guage because the compressor starts pumping harder at the 60-80psi and i can look on the compressors guage to see that it really is 60 - 80 psi


please help!

[Yan Wang]

Er... you are only allowed to be running at 60psi. So I don't see the problem.

[pras870]

The pressure regulator is supposed to only go to 60 psi. That is the pressure in the system FIRST wants us to have for use in the cylinders. Put the regulators after the tanks, and the pressure switch will automatically shut off at 120 psi.

[blindguyinanorg]

well it looks like i need to read better. i was under the impression that the yellow tipped one went before the tanks and the other after.

are we aloud to use the yellow tipped as the only pressure regulator?

[pras870]

No, you must use both. The second is a "precautionary" one that FIRST wants us to use, just to be safe.

I just re-checked the pneumatics manual and it states.

Regarding the Norgen regulator:
This Regulator must be placed in-line right after the tanks to limit the pressure to all working circuits to 60psi.

As for the secondary (Monnier valve), this is from the 2003 checklist (I'm assuming it is not going to change):
Monnier Secondary Regulator after Norgren Primary Regulator. Guages veryify system Pressure. 120 psi Tanks; 60 psi System.

[ngreen]

What pras means to say is that you need one pressure regulator after the tanks that will regulate the air to <=60 psi. This wouldn't be the yellow tipped regulator(secondary regulator) but the completely black regulator (primary regulator). You do not have to use both regulator but must use the primary regulator between your high pressure (120 psi) and working pressure (60 psi, going through solenoids). You can use a secondary regulator to reduce the psi even farther if you want to but you don't have to use it.

You must however use the Nason Pressure Switch on the 120 psi side of your system. You wire it as a sensor to the RC and it will shut off the compressor at 115 psi and turn it back on at 90 psi. I don't know the specific specs for pins and programming but there is literature about it from FIRST or I am sure there are more people about who have a better idea about that.

[Eric Reed]

Try putting the high pressure guage on one of the brass T fittings after the pump but before the regulator. You should see it go up to 120 PSI. If not make sure that:

1) you have no air leaks in the system. When you shut off the compressor, the pressure should not decrease
2) you have the regulator installed correctly. There is an arrow on the bottom pointing to one of the outlets. The inlet is the hole directly across from the identified outlet. If you pump air into the wrong hole, it WILL relieve the pressure above 60 PSI.

Eric.

[Chris Fultz]

Connect your regulator after the reserviors. Be sure it is set with the flow in the right direction (arrow away from your compressor).

The control system, thru the pressure switch, keeps the reservior side limited to about 115 - 120 psi. You must have a pressure gage before the regulator to show that you are staying below 120 psi. Put another pressure gage after the regulator and adjust the regulator to 60 psi max.

You do not have to use both regulators. The second one is an option if youwant to use two different regulated pressures. For example, one cylinder at 60 psi and another at 40 psi.

Take a good look at the pictures in the FIRST manual - they have detail and show a workable circuit.

[pras870]

The only reason I say you must use the secondary regulator, is because it was required last year to use both. Now I'm not sure it is going to be the same this year, it is only an assumption.

[ngreen]

I'm sure only one was required last year. I remember a Q&A question addressing this and them replying how the pimary regulator was the only required on and that the one with the yellow ring was optional if you wishes to drop the pressure additionally.

Sorry, I know from reading the current years rule that this is not required this year and their has been no change since last year in this rule.

[blindguyinanorg]

we arnt putting the compresser on the bot. is it nessecary to have the sensor on the bot or cna we just look at the guague when charging bfore a match

[Chris Fultz]

In 2003, we did not keep our compressor on the robot. We charged up before each match and removed the compressor.

You will need a place to connect (the shitoff valve is good) so you can connect and disconnect without losing air. You need the gage on the high pressure side so you know when you are at 120 psi. Then you stil need the regulator to drop you to 60 psi. And you need the gage on the downstream side of the regulator to show that you are at 60 psi.

Good luck with this set up. It worked well for us, but your driver has to remember he / she has only one or two tries with the pneumatics and then you are out of air. Be sure all lines are "filled" by operating the sstem a few times so that you have some pressure in the system - otherwise you can lose all of your air pressure just filling up 'empty' pneumatic lines.

We called our device our R.P.C.A. "Remote Pneumatic Charging Aparatus". MAde a small carry box with a handle and battery. It has come in very handy this season while we tested different circuits.

[Aidan F. Browne]

Folks,

I know time is running short and panic is setting in... but please don't rely on "I was under the impression" or "This is what we had to do last year". Please do refer to the 2004 documentation.

On the current issue, Section 5.2.9 clearly lays out the requirements of your Pneumatics system. (and you will be inspected against these)

As far as "legality", Section 5 is your primary resource, the Pneumatics Manual your secondary resource. If they disagree anywhere (not saying they do) Section 5 would override.

Hope that helps!



Aidan