Go to Post So kudos for asking advice... you've got plenty of good advice so far in this column... but honestly, if Orville and Wilbur Wright had taken good advice they would have packed up and gone back to their bicycle shop. - dtengineering [more]
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  #16   Spotlight this post!  
Unread 22-04-2002, 13:34
Jnadke Jnadke is offline
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Let's see...

standard two joystick tank drive...
left joystick trigger - fire front grabber
right joystick trigger - fire rear grabber
right joystick top - hold to reverse controls

Then we have a box... 2 rocker switches, one for each grabber mechanism... up = grab goal (auto), down = release goal (auto)

Then we have 2 switches for manually releasing a goal, these override everything in case the limit switches are malfunctioning... (*ego* dunno why they would tho, I rigged most of them myself */ego*)

The automatic functions allow it to grab faster, but they're not really needed. Just icing on the cake.
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Unread 22-04-2002, 13:40
shelves4 shelves4 is offline
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We have two joysticks and some buttons. Works well, easy to use.
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Unread 22-04-2002, 16:00
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Tom Fairchild Tom Fairchild is offline
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Our control box last year was a total mess, so this year I decided to work hard at making a good looking one. One joystick does the driving (if anything I don't want to have to wire a Y cable like last year which is what we would have to do if we wanted 2 joystick) and a switch box does all the rest. Made that out of a transparent blue and white material - looks really cool. For functions, we have 2 two position switches for front and rear latches (which are passive latches, aka, one position is to release, the other is to stay latched or be in the correct position to latch). Three position momentary switches do our elevator, shock absorber manual controlls, and collector height. A regular three position controlls which end of the robot is the 'front' with the middle position being neutral - great while working on the robot and you don't want it to move but still have functionality. Single push button does our dropdown (all automated) and another puts our ball collector at approximately the correct height (pots aren't perfect :-/ ). Finally, one last three position switch does our collector wheel and a two position red on/off switch is a sensor override.

~Tom Fairchild~, who was proud to use all the binary variables in the code w/o using a Y cable.
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Unread 22-04-2002, 17:16
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Matt Reiland Matt Reiland is offline
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Control System for Pegasus 4.0

Our driver gets 1 wonderful Joystick to drive around in slow speed tank steer, pull the trigger to go to full 100% speed tank steer. Press the top button to engage 'Sidestep' which is our version of swerving such that the robot follows the joystick keeping its orientation when the top button is pressed. We added a Pot that selects Joysticks 1-4 and shows the joystick calibration on 4 LED's in a diamond pattern which is handy and works right before the start while the robot is still disabled. The manipulator is 2 more joysticks one to move the goal grabber in-out and release, the other to suck/shoot balls and raise/lower the boom. Calibration turns out to be really important once you pass the 10 ft/sec limit.
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Unread 22-04-2002, 21:18
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tank steering with 2 joys (trigger for front grippers), joy for the mouse, box for amp, spear, and side grabber also HUD glasses,
simple but effective
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Unread 23-04-2002, 16:42
GregT GregT is offline
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If you have tank steering 2 joysticks is the only way to go... I couldn't imagine driving a tank with 1 joystick.

Greg
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Unread 23-04-2002, 16:48
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2 joysticks, 2 wheels

We only have to wheels that are driven by the drill motors. The driven wheels are in the middle of the bot so that we can turn on the point...

We have one joystick for each of the two wheels, so 2 joysticks, works best for me as a driver...

so long, Phil
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Unread 23-04-2002, 17:06
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Jeff Waegelin Jeff Waegelin is offline
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We have one joystick for our drive, two buttons for our gear-shift, and two joysticks for our extender arms.
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