Extending 6 Gauge Wire - Best Practices?

[Mr. Lim]

The ground wire on the Andersen connector is too short. I can't get it reach our breaker panel, and without the need for a ground stud like last year's multiple breakout setup, I want to avoid using one.

What are the best practices in extending the 6 gauge wires on the Andersen connectors? Splice? Bolt two lugs together, and wrap in electrical tape? Break down and make space to mount a ground stud for just two wires?

How do you do it?

-SlimBoJones...

[Alan Anderson]

Why not replace the entire wire with one long enough for your needs?

[Pat Fairbank]

We usually pull the wires out of the Anderson connector, use pliers to remove the tab things, and re-crimp, solder, and heat-shrink tube them onto longer and more flexible 4 AWG wire. We never have problems with them after this.

[Andy Brockway]

Originally Posted by Pat Fairbank

We usually pull the wires out of the Anderson connector, use pliers to remove the tab things, and re-crimp, solder, and heat-shrink tube them onto longer and more flexible 4 AWG wire. We never have problems with them after this.

This, and the one above, is the best method. However there are crimping blocks that can be used, just make sure you buy one that can handle two #6 cables. Split bolt connectors such as McMaster Carr #6921K57 is an example. Wrap it well with insulating tape!

[Mr. Lim]

Thanks all!

Appreciate the solution(s)!

[ConKbot of Doom]

I know this isn't probably the best method (the 4awg method sounds a lot better in fact...) but in a spot last year we were getting the bot ready for a presentation to get a sponsor, and it turned out that a splice in one of the 6awg, was just 2 battery lugs bolted together, and one of the lugs was coming loose.

Well I decided that soldering it was probably the best solution right then. So I pulled the battery lugs off (rather easily I might add :-/ ) spread the wire out a bit, meshed the two pieces together, and soldered the joint with a propane torch (a full sized one not a mini one, big ol 12" flame on that sucker)

For last minute work it came out nice, I would be more confident in that than the battery lugs. For some reason I have an immense disliking for non-soldered joints. Maybe it is just all the hobby electronics I do...

[greencactus3]

Originally Posted by ConKbot of Doom

I know this isn't probably the best method (the 4awg method sounds a lot better in fact...) but in a spot last year we were getting the bot ready for a presentation to get a sponsor, and it turned out that a splice in one of the 6awg, was just 2 battery lugs bolted together, and one of the lugs was coming loose.

Well I decided that soldering it was probably the best solution right then. So I pulled the battery lugs off (rather easily I might add :-/ ) spread the wire out a bit, meshed the two pieces together, and soldered the joint with a propane torch (a full sized one not a mini one, big ol 12" flame on that sucker)

For last minute work it came out nice, I would be more confident in that than the battery lugs. For some reason I have an immense disliking for non-soldered joints. Maybe it is just all the hobby electronics I do...

just as long as you know how to solder (ex) dont use a puny 20W iron for 6 guage), it might not be as efficient or flexible but it will be solid

[sanddrag]

We bought identical connectors to the ones in the kit and are soldering in 6 ga welding cable (super flexible and finely stranded) It was a pain to find (in red). We would have gone to 4 ga (and bigger powerpoles) but the 50 amp SB powerpoles (which we are required to use) only support contacts for up to 6 ga, so high quality 6 ga it is.