pic: Omnitrack Summer Project?

[Tatsu]

With all honesty, this is cool, but it makes no sense to me.

You should put the wheels in a diamond pattern, so when you're pushing forward, you're at around 75 not 50% efficiency.

But what makes no sense, is why you want treads.
For non-deforming surfaces, frictional force is independent of area. IIRC, Tank treads make sense in that they can "dig in" and create normal force (instead of frictional force) but these AM rollers dont deform, dont dig in, dont really do anything but add weight. since there's only two points where the weight is supported (the aluminum sprockets) this is functionally equivalent to having two omnis on each side of the square.

Also, why are you filing? you have access to a SWEET cnc mill, it'd only require a fraction of the machining you did for your wheels

Tatsu out.

[Dillon Compton]

Uhm...If the rollers are at 45 degree angles to the tread, then the tread should be mounted parallel to the frame at the four corners; the nature of mecanum systems is such that you receive standard weight distro, speed, and forward traction, while gaining the manuverability of omniwheel systems.

Good luck.

[Tatsu]

I dont the the OP is talking about 45 deg rollers, and if OP did do that, he'd need the treads set up like traditional mecanum wheels (ie two treads / side) rather than the square shape he has now.

[Chuck Glick]

im just wondering how the work on this idea has been going along, because a couple of members on 1712 along with myself are working on a omni tread design as well. just wondering how far its gotten. and i think i figured a way to keep the treads in a straight line and have a good sprocket for them to move on.

[Gabe]

Originally Posted by SirCharles982

im just wondering how the work on this idea has been going along, because a couple of members on 1712 along with myself are working on a omni tread design as well. just wondering how far its gotten. and i think i figured a way to keep the treads in a straight line and have a good sprocket for them to move on.

Not so well, because I realized that the tracks would weigh a lot if they were made of aluminum and if each had a 3/16" steel link pin. Also (heh) I noticed that with my design it is physically impossible to install the last link, and therefore it is impossible to complete one entire track. To put the 1/8" steel pin in, it would mean that it would have to go through the 3/16" pin.
If I were to change my design, I would make the links out of plastic, and have cylindrical rollers instead of barrel shaped rollers.

This will give you an idea of what I mean. Sorry about the image, but without AutoCAD, Inventor, or Solidworks, I have to work with what I have: Microsoft Word. This shows the top view of my idea, and you can see the cylindrical rollers with a pin going through (maybe 1/8"). The tread links are joined at the top and bottom by another pin ( maybe 1/8").