Chain Tensioning Method?

[BBnum3]

I really liked the chain tensioners that 1625 used on their robot last year. They're great because adjusting the tension is really simple, all you have to do is pivot the little arm that holds the idler sprocket. This worked with their one-chain-per-side configuration.

Here's a picture, and you can see the tensioner right next to the transmission:

[AustinSchuh]

Here is a great thread on the 254/968 drive train

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...threadid=50318

Here is an alternative design that I came up with that does the same job without the fancy parts. A great render is most of the way down the page.

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=50768

[Jonathan Norris]

I just did the tensioning system on our robot today, and a simple solution that we are using is basically a small piece of delrin (low friction plastic) pushing down on the chain with two screws tapped into the delrin (yes it actually works..). Then the screws are attached through a part of the frame directly above the chain. Seems to work well so far, going to play with it tomorrow more.

[MrForbes]

That's what we had in mind, making it adjustable through a long range of travel is the fun part! Being able to quickly release the chain tension, and unhook the chain without removing the master link so one can rapidly change a wheel between rounds, is the goal.

[Cody Carey]

You could use something like this.
The grey cylinder is a sprocket, and the side plates (blue) bolt on to the KOP pneumatics mounting brackets (green). In our case, we were going to attach a spring of the right tension to the open axle (bottom-left) and to a bolt which would be driven into the top of the mounting block (red) between the Mounting brackets; but you could as easily attach a pneumatic piston, or anything else.


Scale reference: the red mounting block is meant to fit around 1" square tubing.

[Doug G]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Norris

I just did the tensioning system on our robot today, and a simple solution that we are using is basically a small piece of delrin (low friction plastic) pushing down on the chain with two screws tapped into the delrin (yes it actually works..). Then the screws are attached through a part of the frame directly above the chain. Seems to work well so far, going to play with it tomorrow more.

We're thinking of doing this also this year. We're tired of slots where the axels go, they're a pain. Anyone done the "delrin pushing down on chain with the 2 screws attached to the delrin and chassis" that can offer up any advice or pics?

[Lifelessimp]

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...50&postcount=7

[MrForbes]

thanks for the link, we hadn't thought of that!

[MrForbes]

here's another idea...

http://www.pobcoplastics.com/pg_42.htm

[Scott358]

We're thinking about designing with a sprocket spacing that allows for the "perfect" distance (exact number of links). There is a spreadsheet to help with this in the CD-media white papers.

I know there will be a little chain stretch, but we're hoping to run without need for tensioners. Anyone have experience with this method?

[Jonathan Norris]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Norris

I just did the tensioning system on our robot today, and a simple solution that we are using is basically a small piece of delrin (low friction plastic) pushing down on the chain with two screws tapped into the delrin (yes it actually works..). Then the screws are attached through a part of the frame directly above the chain. Seems to work well so far, going to play with it tomorrow more.

Ok so I got time to take some pics of what I was talking about before. As you can see the delrin block pushes down on the chain. All I need to do to tension the chain more is grab a drill .