Chain Tensioning Method?

[Doug G]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Norris

I just did the tensioning system on our robot today, and a simple solution that we are using is basically a small piece of delrin (low friction plastic) pushing down on the chain with two screws tapped into the delrin (yes it actually works..). Then the screws are attached through a part of the frame directly above the chain. Seems to work well so far, going to play with it tomorrow more.

We're thinking of doing this also this year. We're tired of slots where the axels go, they're a pain. Anyone done the "delrin pushing down on chain with the 2 screws attached to the delrin and chassis" that can offer up any advice or pics?

[Lifelessimp]

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...50&postcount=7

[MrForbes]

thanks for the link, we hadn't thought of that!

[MrForbes]

here's another idea...

http://www.pobcoplastics.com/pg_42.htm

[Scott358]

We're thinking about designing with a sprocket spacing that allows for the "perfect" distance (exact number of links). There is a spreadsheet to help with this in the CD-media white papers.

I know there will be a little chain stretch, but we're hoping to run without need for tensioners. Anyone have experience with this method?

[Jonathan Norris]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Norris

I just did the tensioning system on our robot today, and a simple solution that we are using is basically a small piece of delrin (low friction plastic) pushing down on the chain with two screws tapped into the delrin (yes it actually works..). Then the screws are attached through a part of the frame directly above the chain. Seems to work well so far, going to play with it tomorrow more.

Ok so I got time to take some pics of what I was talking about before. As you can see the delrin block pushes down on the chain. All I need to do to tension the chain more is grab a drill .

[Brandon Holley]

tensionerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrssss let me know if you have any questions

[Cody Carey]

You could use something like this.
The grey cylinder is a sprocket, and the side plates (blue) bolt on to the KOP pneumatics mounting brackets (green). In our case, we were going to attach a spring of the right tension to the open axle (bottom-left) and to a bolt which would be driven into the top of the mounting block (red) between the Mounting brackets; but you could as easily attach a pneumatic piston, or anything else.


Scale reference: the red mounting block is meant to fit around 1" square tubing.

[John Gutmann]

Originally Posted by David Sherman

I'm designing the drivetrain for this year's bot and we need a way to tension chains. Last year we used floating idlers from mc master and those were a mess. I'm looking at an automatic tensioning system, such as something spring loaded. Any suggestions, tips, or advice?

Do you have a rigid mount on your motors/ wheels? if not then put slotted holes, and just push the plates and viola!

[Dick Linn]

The last couple of years, we've designed it so we can move the entire motor/gearbox assembly up or down a tad so as to tension the chains. Of course, that is with 2 or 4 wheel drive, not 6. One time, we just cut grooves in some old polyurethane skateboard wheels and used them as tensioners. Price was right...

[David Sherman]

As of right now its not going to be very possible to slot the chassis. These are all really great ideas everyone, thanks so much.