Cool Frame Ideas?

[ChuckDickerson]

Originally Posted by M. Krass

I didn't even think that it would be produced by the same folks that market the T-slot extrusion. Thanks.

Has anyone used these connectors with more conventional 1x1x.0625" tubing? I'd rather not need special tubing when I've got a local supplier for metal stock and a few dozen feet sitting in the workshop already.

Madison et al.

We have used 80/20 QuickFrame extensively for the last two years. We haven't used it for the chassis but for most all of the other structural components. It is really great stuff and easy to work with. All you need is a miter saw and a rubber mallet. If you want to take it apart heat the aluminum near the connector with a propane torch to expand the aluminun just a little and then the connector will usually slide right out to be reused. The only downside is the plastic connectors aren't exactly light and can start to add up if you are trying to squeze out that extra pound or two of weight budget. We bought a bunch of stock and connectors in 2006 and will probably need to restock some this year. I don't know where everyone else buys their 80/20 material but we went through our regional distributor and they gave us quite a nice educational discount. IIRC it was something like 40% and I was under the impression this was the standard 80/20 discount for all FIRST teams.

As far as using the connectors with standard 1" thin walled square tubing I really don't think it will work. The 1" square 80/20 QuickFrame tubing is specially fitted for the connectors. It has longitudinal ribbing inside that forms a friction lock with the plastic connectors. This is sort of the secret to the whole system. The internal dimensions of the QuickFrame tubing is slightly smaller (thicker walled than standard 1" thin wall box tubing) so if you try to insert a QuickFrame connector into standard 1" thin walled box tubing the connector will just fall out (too loose). The tubing isn't really that expensive though. IIRC the standard 1" QuickFrame box tubing was about $10-$11 per 12 foot (145") piece after the discount. They also have tubing with flanges on the side in different arrangements for putting panels in, etc. We purchased some but didn't really use the flanges much and often just cut them off to save weight.

One trick we found was to drill a hole in the end of the tube through into the connector and put a pop rivet in on any connectors you REALLY don't want to back out. This trick is rarely needed but is cheap (and light) insurance.

There are also 80/20 "transition" connectors available to use QuickFrame in combination with 1010 series where needed.

Search CD media photos for our team number "456" and there are 4 photos, 2 of our 06 and 2 of our 07 (1 lifting our 06) robot showing lots of use of 80/20 QuickFrame.

Oh yeah, we have used the KitBot frame for the last two years but the QuickFrame matches perfectly to the 1/4" 1" spaced hole pattern of the KitBot frame if you use the little base connector (part number 9140(gray) or 9240 (black)).

Hope this helps. Any more questions just ask.

Edit: I forgot the mention that 80/20 QuickFrame isn't really made by 80/20 but rather by Esto.

[IndySam]

We have used welded 1" aluminum for our frame 3 out of the last four years with great success. The other year we used the kit box frame welded together.

We have also used 1" thin wall for the superstructure but connected together with gussets and rivets. No need for fancy connectors or welding. Only tools needed are a hacksaw, tin snips, a drill and pop rivet gun.

[Veselin Kolev]

side panels:
1" thick lightweight aluminum honeycomb, laminated to high density carbon fiber composite sheets on either side of the honeycomb.

internal frame: some 1x1x1/16" box beams to keep the side panels from crushing inwards.

analysis on such honeycomb and carbon fiber side panels show that the central layers of honeycomb take next to no force, and all the force is taken by the outside edge. so make it out of carbon fiber. superlightweight, and its strength increases exponentially the thicker the honeycomb layer is. then just make up a simple frame to keep the side panels in place, and cover the carbon fiber with like 1/2" foam to keep it from cracking under high pressure impacts. and then you have a really strong, lightweight frame.

my research group is using stuff like this... its lots of fun. the stuff weighs as much as foam and is as rigid as a steel plate.

[Madison]

Originally Posted by DeepWater

Madison et al.

As far as using the connectors with standard 1" thin walled square tubing I really don't think it will work. The 1" square 80/20 QuickFrame tubing is specially fitted for the connectors. It has longitudinal ribbing inside that forms a friction lock with the plastic connectors. This is sort of the secret to the whole system. The internal dimensions of the QuickFrame tubing is slightly smaller (thicker walled than standard 1" thin wall box tubing) so if you try to insert a QuickFrame connector into standard 1" thin walled box tubing the connector will just fall out (too loose). The tubing isn't really that expensive though. IIRC the standard 1" QuickFrame box tubing was about $10-$11 per 12 foot (145") piece after the discount. They also have tubing with flanges on the side in different arrangements for putting panels in, etc. We purchased some but didn't really use the flanges much and often just cut them off to save weight.

One trick we found was to drill a hole in the end of the tube through into the connector and put a pop rivet in on any connectors you REALLY don't want to back out. This trick is rarely needed but is cheap (and light) insurance.

Ah, thanks. I was pretty well assuming we'd need to drill through the connector and bolt it since I don't trust anything that's meant to be a press fit, so maybe that would be enough to hold even a loose nylon connector in place. I'll order a handful and see how it goes, I guess, but I can't see going through the time or expense of ordering new metal stock; especially if it's already anodized and harder to work. Even with a bolt through each, it seems like this will be as light or lighter than our existing methods of joining tubes -- lots of rivets and joining plates. The really nice thing about these is that they'll save lots and lots of manufacturing time, we hope.