pic: 114's new tensioner

[Madison]

Originally Posted by squirrel

Also you could make the "halves" so they are not really halves, but one thicker than the other. Then you could just thread one of them and eliminate the round part. The hole for the tensioning bolt can go thru to the center area, since it only has to "miss" the axle.

I think this is where you'll end up on the next iteration, Craig. The concept is sound, as I see it, and it's pretty much where I ended up a few weeks ago -- though I'm probably a few iterations farther down the road and I'm interested to see if we end up in the same place.

Also, the extant model has far more space for adjustment in the frame rail than the screw provides. You can narrow the opening to the length of your required adjustment -- .25" for #25 chain and .375" for #35.

For what reason are you intending to press your bearings in to the outside of the bearing block? I think you could change that a bit and end up with bearing blocks that can be cut in one op. instead of two.