Number of FP Motors

[Andy L]

When we were designing I remember someone telling me we were limited to two fisher price motors. Now I'm going through the rules and I can't see anything that limits using fisher price motors. Am I missing it??

Also, If anyone can help me think of a way to speed up our mechanism that currently is using a globe motor, the standard gearbox and the gates belting that came in the kit, I would appreciate it.

[Jimmy Cao]

I dont know where the rule is (prob in KoP section), but you are only permitted 2 FPs.
EDIT: It is listed in the KoP Checklist, as 2 motors. I am 100% positive you are only permitted 2 FPs.

Unfortunately, I havent used those belts and stuff in the kit before, so I cant help you there.

[Vikesrock]

<R60> Items specifically PROHIBITED from use on the ROBOT include:
 Electric motors and/or servos different from, or in addition to, those in the Kit Of Parts, with
the exception of those specifically permitted by Rule <R59>.
 Electric solenoid actuators (note: electric solenoid actuators are NOT the same as pneumatic
solenoid valves – the latter are permitted, the former are not).

You got 2 in the KOP so you can use 2, no more than that.

I'm probably not the best person to answer your question regarding globes, but I think I can ask some questions that may help others answer it better.

1. What are the "bands in the kit"? The surgical tubing bands? The Gates belts?
2. Could you gear it differently? If using the gates belts, use different size pulleys on one end or the other?
3. What other motors do you have available (or which ones are already on your robot, whichever is easier)
4. What does the globe interface to, a sprocket, a pulley, a spool, etc.?

[Andy L]

Originally Posted by Vikesrock

You got 2 in the KOP so you can use 2, no more than that.

I'm probably not the best person to answer your question regarding globes, but I think I can ask some questions that may help others answer it better.

1. What are the "bands in the kit"? The surgical tubing bands? The Gates belts?
2. Could you gear it differently? If using the gates belts, use different size pulleys on one end or the other?
3. What other motors do you have available (or which ones are already on your robot, whichever is easier)
4. What does the globe interface to, a sprocket, a pulley, a spool, etc.?

sorry for the lack of detail, my head hurts and I can't get a vivid picture of our robot in my head, and I can't remember part names very well

1. the Gates belts
2. We could try that If I remember right we have the smaller pulleys on the motor
3. we've used all 4 CIMs and 2 FPs
4. I think it's a pulley it came in the kit with the gates belts

[The Lucas]

Originally Posted by Andy L

Also, If anyone can help me think of a way to speed up our mechanism that currently is using a globe motor, the standard gearbox and the gates belting that came in the kit, I would appreciate it.

Try using a banebots RS550 motor. There are a whole selection of gearboxes
. If you are currently at a regional and cant order one, ask other teams what banebot gearboxes they have

[danshaffer]

buy different pulleys? (you can get them on McMaster, they're called timing belt pulleys)

[Laxphan1525]

one other option is to remove the gearbox on the globe and replace it with a modified banebots gearbox or modified dewalt gearbox or modified fp am planetary gearbox. This isnt a simple fix but despite to many peoples knowledge the globe motor is actually a pretty useful motor once the gearbox is removed. i beleive its around 11000 rpm. however i am not 100% sure this is legal but i see no specific reason why it wouldnt because your not modifing the motor just the gearbox. we are currently facing a similar issue with our robot but we still have the two fp to use if we need too.

Mcmaster doesnt sell the same kind of belt as gates belt in the kit . Since gates isnt a distributer, we got our extra belts from motion industrials who were very helpful and provided a product that was not stocked at there location the same day.

[hillale]

Our team actually disassembled the globe motor transmission and took out a stage. We started out using these for our rollers to grab the ball, but they were too slow. Upon the removal of a stage, they are much faster and work very well for their purpose

[Richard McClellan]

Now I'm curious, who has used a Banebots gearbox on a Globe motor before? Is it as simple as pressing on a Banebots pinion, and screwing it together?

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by hillale

Our team actually disassembled the globe motor transmission and took out a stage. We started out using these for our rollers to grab the ball, but they were too slow. Upon the removal of a stage, they are much faster and work very well for their purpose

How hard was this? What do you do? Is it possible to do at a regional without any machining?

[Kevin Sevcik]

Removing a stage is going to require shortening the ring gear on the outside of the transmission or removing the planet gears of a stage and locking the Sun/Carrier of one stage to a later stage. Neither is incredibly difficult, but it will take some time. The important thing to remember however is that this isn't going to net you any increase in power. Your mechanism will move something like 3-5 times faster (I haven't looked at the guts of a globe yet) but it will also only provide one-third to one fifth as much torque. You might have better luck speeding up your mechanism by attaching a banebots RS-550 or RS-540 to it, if you have them available. if you're using all 4 CIMS, 2 FPs, and both BBs, then you've effectively exhausted your supply of high powered motors and you'll simply be left with globes, window lifts, etc. However, if I recall the progression of motors correctly, the van door motor often ranks just a bit higher than the globe for power.

Originally Posted by Kevin Sevcik

Removing a stage is going to require shortening the ring gear on the outside of the transmission or removing the planet gears of a stage and locking the Sun/Carrier of one stage to a later stage. Neither is incredibly difficult, but it will take some time. The important thing to remember however is that this isn't going to net you any increase in power. Your mechanism will move something like 3-5 times faster (I haven't looked at the guts of a globe yet) but it will also only provide one-third to one fifth as much torque. You might have better luck speeding up your mechanism by attaching a banebots RS-550 or RS-540 to it, if you have them available. if you're using all 4 CIMS, 2 FPs, and both BBs, then you've effectively exhausted your supply of high powered motors and you'll simply be left with globes, window lifts, etc. However, if I recall the progression of motors correctly, the van door motor often ranks just a bit higher than the globe for power.

The team I used to work with did this. All we did was mill off a stage on the ring gear (the casing), and index 3 holes into the casing. Pull a stage out, slap it back together, three screws/roll pins in, and you've got a 400rpm Globe motor. Quite useful, actually.

[AdamHeard]

We know about the loss in torque.

294 designed a 2.5" roller to to be driven with a belt reduction. they now realized that is a lot slower than it should be (considering on 973 we have them 1:1 to a 5" roller) they want to fix it. They don't have the belt available to switch ratios, and can't simple switch the two pulleys.

We/they have 3-4 globes to try this out on and if we can find a way to do it at the regional it'd be the easiest way to fix this issue.

[Kevin Sevcik]

Adam,

Removing a gear stage is probably your best bet, then. The smartest move would be to remove a stage and have the machine shop mill or lathe down the ring gear to make it shorter. The quickest way, however, would be to remove the planets from a stage and weld that stage's sun gear to that stage's planet carrier/ the next stage's sun gear. As long as you clamp everything up straight and true, this should work just fine. If you've got a Globe to burn, I'd try this first for a quick fix.

[Andy L]

We have a spare Globe motor lying around our shop somewhere that I'll take a look at next time I'm in there. Can anyone elaborate on exactly how to take out out a stage without welding, milling, or anything that uses anything more than basically hand tools?