Photographing matches

[jasonjmonroe]

Let me just say that there is no one magic camera or settings that will produce knock-out photos every time at FRC events. The conditions change so dramatically from area to area and event to event that it is impossible to recommend something over another. So far this year I have only shot 2 regionals Chicago [Day1] [Day2] and Flint [Comp]. Since Flint is not representative of typical lighting conditions please excuse that all my examples are from a very limited set of one regional. After a few years of shooting events, I can impart a few pointers:

First, know your camera! This is the difference of what a good photographer knows. A good photographer should be able to make dynamite shots with a disposable camera because they know what the camera can/cannot do. The honest truth is the difference between a several hundred dollar camera and a several thousand dollar camera is one will get you 90% of the shots you want to get and the other will get you 95%. But, if you chase that 5% of shots with the former camera you will be disappointed to find that none of them will come out acceptably. Find the capabilities of your camera and live within them.

Find the capabilities of your camera by taking a zillion or more photos, looking at them on the computer, and learning what works and what does not. Some things that work with one set up may not with another. This is where learning the capabilities of your camera come in to play.

Most of the time the limiting factor at a FRC event is as you pointed out that you are shooting something moving fast in not the most ideal lighting. You are getting into the 95% camera to really get the shots you want. All cameras will take nice shots outside on a sunny day. Generally the more expensive equipment is better suited to gathering more light and making better use out of the light available. They are more expensive because you are paying for larger glass to gather more light, using glass that is less lossy, and hitting a CCD that is more light sensitive. This seems to be a logarithmic curve between cost and performance. You can spend thousands and only get a marginal improvement, but that being said if those are the only shots you want than it may be worth it.

Most cameras these days you can manipulate most of the settings such as ISO, EV, white balance, shutter speed, etc. Most of these settings are a balancing act. For example, the ISO setting increases the gain of the CCD making it more light sensitive, but also increases the gain of the noise floor of the CCD. You want to use the lowest ISO setting you can to get the cleanest photos, but the lower the setting the less light you have and the longer the shutter needs to be open. If motion occurs while the shutter is open, then that part of the image would appear to blur.

Blur is not a bad thing! [Pic1] [Pic2][Pic3][Pic4][Pic5] We perceive it to convey motion, or to draw your eye to the area of attention. Turn it from being a detriment to an asset by using blur to convey context and liven up your picture.

Some times you do want a rock solid shot of the field with the robots on it. You can accomplish this with any camera, but you may need to make some concessions to live within the capability of your camera. Knowing that motion causes blur, take your shot when there is not motion! For example, right after the match ends but before the judges go out on the field and the drivers leave their post take your shot while the machines are not moving. Someone casually looking at the photo would not be able to guess that the match is already over. [Pic1] It is a little bit of smoke and mirrors, but remember that you are going after the shot and only you need to know in what context it was made.

There are things that you can do to minimize the amount of blur in your image. The source of blur can be your subject or you. Make sure you are holding your camera rock solid when you take your shot. You could try to use a tripod to help you keep steady, but I hate them. Tripods do not work well with as many people at an event as FRC and no one paying attention to where they are walking. You also want to be mobile to get around as quickly as the fast paced game itself. A tripod will only slow you down. Get creative. Set your camera on a trash can or rail to stabilize your shot. (This was after the event, I sat the camera on the stairs to leave the shutter open longer. [Pic1]) The one trick I use is I wrap the neck strap under my arm and make it short. Then when I lift my elbow to take the shot the strap tightens and I can use my entire upper body to stabilize the camera. With a pocket camera I sometimes hold it against my forehead to keep it from moving. If you have two hands on it and it is out in front of you to look through it is not easy to keep it still.

Take your shot when your subject is not screaming down the field such as when the machine is hurdling [Pic1] [Pic2] or sitting at the starting line. [Pic1]

OK, I can tell this is going to a multi-parter. If there is interest, I will continue with white balance, subjects, constitution, and more on mitigating blur in future segments……

-J