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#31
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Re: Best Drivetrain
This was our platform in 2005 -- probably the most interesting year in 1294's history. The robot performed perfectly, all the time -- except when the team forgot to plug in PWM cables, or unplugged the compressor and didn't turn it back on, or when the drive team, which changed practically from match to match, didn't know what to do with the robot. It was a perfect storm of a simple, reliable robot that didn't LOOK reliable due to poor teamwork. A sobering lesson (and not my fault -- really).
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#32
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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#35 chain is plenty reliable and competitive for any team, not just rookies. While #25 has its advantages, I'd suggest rookies spend their resources and times developing other aspects of the drive and whole robot rather than worrying about #25 chain just yet. Spend more of those resources on better wheels, transmissions, electronics, or manipulators (or about anything else). Get done with your drive a little bit quicker with the supplied #35 and let your programmers have more time. The best thing for a rookie to do is come up with a reliable, fully-functioning, usable drive with enough time for their programmers and other sub-systems to have access to the bot to do what work they need to do. That way they can spend more time programming, testing, de-bugging, and integrating the systems, as well as the all important training of the drivers. |
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#33
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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Build a drivetrain that: 1> is within your machining capabilities. (If you don't have any machining capabilities, then the kitbot is your friend) 2> is within your mechanical capabilities (If, by the beginning of next build season, you do not know the mechanics of a swerve drive ... don't build one). Mechanical drivetrain failures are the downfall of many young (and some veteran) teams. 3> is within your budget (many drive systems require you to purchace parts ... make sure you've bugeted for them) 4> is within your programming capabilities (Holonomic and vector controlled drive systems require programming expertise ... If, by the beginning of the build season you do not have the programming expertise needed ... don't build one of these drive systems) 5> is easily and intuitively driveable by your drive team. If you do these things, then whatever drive system you choose will be right for your team |
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#34
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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I dont know tom, i guess we'll have to agree to disagree here...it seems to me that learning some more complex engineering substance is just as valuable as any other part of FIRST. |
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#35
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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#36
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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The takeaway from all of this: especially for drivetrains, most teams will benefit from something simple and reliable. The less experience and assistance you have, the more critical this becomes! The last thing you want is to spend your whole competition season getting the robot to move. A 6WD chain drive may not always be the perfect drivetrain for every competition, but it's easy, simple, and reliable, and it will always be serviceable and successful for any game. (Until we get that water game, or Dave punishes us by banning all wheels.... )An addendum on the #25 versus #35 question: I consider myself to be a pretty experienced designer, but I will ALWAYS use #35 for drivetrains. It doesn't matter how well you can CAD a drive base, if your fabrication tolerances are not tight enough, you WILL have problems with #25. I will take the reliability and forgiveness of #35 over the weight savings any day. I've seen too many #25 systems fail due to misalignment to do it any other way. |
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#37
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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I agree with you guys, but I think your missing my point. I am not saying to go out and build some ridiculous design...but as a rookie team I feel it is good to set a precedent that you are going to do your best to make a robot that is to your ability every year. Some teams simply cannot machine an entire drivetrain, that is understood...but if a team has the means to make a part of their drivetrain, a little complicated, or innovative, why not? I think it is important to balance the idea of "being competitive" with learning science and technology too. I guess what I fear is a team saying, well yeah we could do that, but why don't we just buy this and call it done... |
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#38
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Re: Best Drivetrain
I have to chime in here as well.
1) There's no rookie team in Davis, maybe they were referring to a rookie team that attended the Davis Regional. 2) Not to stiffle creativity and the thrill to innovate, but for a rookie team or 2nd year team - I highly suggest a robust 6WD setup with kit transmissions (if supplied). Pic... http://www.travisusd.k12.ca.us/vande...n/DSC05175.JPG Last year was probably our most reliable drive system (yes - even with banebots). Kit transmissions, chained to a center-traction wheel (kit wheels), the center wheel chained to the front and back wheels. Tensioned with UMHW off-center cams. The whole drive system was put together using nothing more than a cordless drill and a band saw (neglecting the welded frame which could be replaced by a kit frame). THE MOST IMPORTANT THING FOR A ROOKIE TEAM IS TO GET THEIR DRIVE SYSTEM WORKING BY THE END OF THE THIRD WEEK. Our team was very competitive last year, simple because of it's dependablity and driver practice. Our drive team had over a week of practice before ship. 3) Use innovative ideas to develop a cool manipulator or strategy. There's absolutely nothing more troubling than to have your robot unable to drive. I think back to the days of 2000, 2001, 2002 when there was no simple drive system that came in the kit. You had some cordless drill motors, transmissions, and skyway wheels that you had to make work. That took our team the bulk of the 6 weeks. |
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#39
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Re: Best Drivetrain
We had a 3WD drivetrain with crab drive.
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#40
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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You have when to hold your cards and when to fold your cards. Take the ace that FIRST has given us and build the kit chassis or a simple 6wd setup with COTS. The time you save will allow you to invest more into your functional designs, which are usually the things that make or break a robot design. |
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#41
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Re: Best Drivetrain
We used a six wheel drive based off the KOP and it worked great and never failed during a real match. It was easy to build and easy to service (not that we ever really had to). I would recommend any rookie team try a six wheel drive with the KOP Wheels and Transmissions just because of the reliably aspect. My favorite feature I integrated into the drive this year was using bolts as axles and pvc spacers to keep everything in place. It made dropping a wheel out take all of 2 seconds and we saved at least a pound or two by not using collars.
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#42
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Re: Best Drivetrain
The Following is Fact:
The purpose of the drive train is to get the manipulator in position to score as many points as possible in the minimum amount of time. That’s all you need to know. The best drive train is the one that accomplishes this task the best. Period. It doesn't mater how many wheels, chains, motors, or gears you use. If 2WD will get the job done, use 2WD and use the time/money/resources saved to work on the manipulator. The Following is my Opinion: Historically, 6WD with the center wheel lowered has been the fastest system. If you need to climb a ramp, 6WD is necessary to prevent bottoming-out. But if the playing field is flat, why bother with 6WD at all? I mean, two of the wheels aren't even touching the ground. So why bother? If the playing field is flat, save yourself some weight and only use 4WD with the wheel axels spaced 12" apart and casters on the front. Some will argue that swerve, mechanum, omni, and tank treads offer advantages over 6/4WD. But when you consider how many teams consistently win regionals and championships without these systems it becomes hard to see what the real benefit is. As for the 25 vs 35 argument... 2006 Our team used #25 in 2006 with the kit frame and it was a COLLOSAL disaster. We couldn't keep the chains in line, or tensioned and they kept falling off. ![]() 2007 Deciding we would never use tensioners or #25 chains again we switched to #35 with movable axels for tensioning. This dive train was very robust, but also very heavy.2008 Deciding that maybe we had been too rough on #25 we switched back, implementing the same movable-axel tensioning system we used in 2007. Worked great. Much lighter and we never lost a chain. So it really comes down to tensioning. #25 needs to be really tight, so you need a good tensioning system. #35 can be much looser. Some teams like 766 and 330 have gotten away without using any tensioners. Last edited by =Martin=Taylor= : 29-04-2008 at 18:24. |
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#43
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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#44
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Re: Best Drivetrain
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Normal Force. If you want to build a robot capable of pushing, you want every ounce of weight sitting on top of the highest traction drive wheels you can find. If you have weight sitting on non-driven wheels (like casters) you are reducing the amount of normal force available. In some games or for some strategies pushing is not an important consideration. In these cases a 6WD may not be important. Brief Aside: In my opinion drivetrain design is very formulaic. "If you want to do X then you need to do Y." It is all about the functionality requirements your team has, and the design trade-offs you are willing to make (these trade-offs may involve things like weight & team resources, or things like pushing power & top speed.) I should write a paper on this sort of thing. -John |
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#45
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Re: Best Drivetrain
You can win playing defense. But you can't win without playing offense.
Defensive robots depend on offensive robots to win. Building a robot that can't score, or even one that isn't designed with scoring as the primary strategy, is risky. Last edited by =Martin=Taylor= : 29-04-2008 at 18:51. |
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