pic: Looking for Info/Parts

[Smaug]

some thing you can do that a couple of team i saw at roboolympics/combots
they used the cheep drill motors from harbor freight
and alternative look at team whachi
http://teamwhyachi.com/index.htm

alot of teams use those the down side is there a little expensive

[skimoose]

The Bosch motors also draw a lot of current under load and ran very hot. I don't have first hand experience with them, but team members remarked about these motors tripping the old KOP main breakers and having to cool the motors off after a match with canned air. On a 30# battlebot you might not have the same issues, but if your bot design is primarily for pushing, like a wedge bot, you could see the same heat issues.

The motor on the right also predates my FIRST experience, but the planetary gearbox looks a lot like a Ryobi used in their older 12V cordless two speed models.

[Al Skierkiewicz]

As you know already, the two on the left are Bosch drill motors, 117 amps at stall. They don't like to be run at low speed with high load which got many teams into trouble with over temp. The motor on the right looks like a FP from about that time but is too small. However, the transmission looks like the guts to an electric screwdriver, so it is possible someone dissassembled the screwdriver and left it in your storage.
I have the motor sheet for the Bosch drills if you would like. Just PM me.

[Andy Brockway]

The motor on the right is the Bosch 3/8" cordless drill motor and transmission from 2001-2002.

[Stephen Kowski]

keep the motor on the right, throw the two on the left away

http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M4-R0062-12

good luck

[HUNT397]

As people above have said the two on the left are the part DC980KA drill motors they did have a tendency to overheat and the leads on the back of the motor would heat up and unsoder themselves. If you were not carefull the brushes on the motor are exposed and extremly fragile.

THe lower motor is a 2000 - 2002 transmission 3/8 dewalt it has been retrofitted to stop the clutch plates from slipping and it also has Dr. Joe Johnson's Shaft in it.

Here are the links on how to retrofit a new one as well as the specs on them both.

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/papers/1558

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/papers/1336

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/papers/1313


MY 2cents run away!! the cim's are more powerfull and more reliable. if they are to heavy consider a NBD transmission with the fisher price motor.

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/papers/1592

Good Luck

[Al Skierkiewicz]

Andy,
You are right, that is the drill motor from the smaller drill. I found the specs in the 2000 robot manual if you need them. Stall at 114 amps, similar problem with the need to keep speed up to cool the motor. The locking/anti-back drive pawls in the transmission produce serious problems for the housing if not removed.

[joeweber]

I just took one off an old robot. Motor, gears and braket. If you were not so far away I would trade with you. All I have is the dimesions document http://www.team1322.org/documents.htm

[AdamHeard]

Hmmm.... for a 30 lb with low funds is somewhat of a dillemna.

Poor quality parts will break, and you will be frustrated and wish you had just done it right in the first place.

I've never built a 30, but I think two small CIMs would be a decent power source (although, compared to more expensive motors they have a poor power to weight ratio).

[=Martin=Taylor=]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

Hmmm.... for a 30 lb with low funds is somewhat of a dillemna.

Poor quality parts will break, and you will be frustrated and wish you had just done it right in the first place.

I've never built a 30, but I think two small CIMs would be a decent power source (although, compared to more expensive motors they have a poor power to weight ratio).

Its not that I have low funds. Its that I don't want to spend a lot of funds. I'd hate to buy some of the whyachi products and have my bot get trashed - thereby wasting my money.

If I remain conservative, and my robot is destroyed, then I won't be losing very much - capisci?

CIMs seem like they might be a reasonable alternative. If I use the NBDs approach I might be able to keep the weight down.

Thanks everyone!

[Greg Perkins]

go with banebots, you wont be disappointed. When Greg Needel and I designed his 30, we used 4 on it for the drive, and man it was powerful!