pic: West Coast Altered

[Alex.Norton]

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[sanddrag]

The way the 1x1 tubes go all the way through the chassis is exactly what 696 did this year. Very strong, minimizes warping during welding. Worked pretty well.

[Greg Needel]

is there a pin or some kind of retaining device on the inside of the chassis rails to keep the frame from squishing and becoming narrower after a side impact?

[s_forbes]

I don't think I'd want to build a robot with that many quick releases in the drivetrain, but from what I've seen at FIRST competitions just about anything will work! Very clever idea.

Which part of the frame do you plan to mount the mechanisms to?

Nice! Looks cool!

I also like your gearbox design....

[Alex.Norton]

There is a retaining feature on the inside of the frame. The lexan on the top and botton of the cross supports would be pot riveted to the box beam keeping the side pieces from moving inward.

Any manipulators or other mehcanism would mount to the black supports because the side would be able to come off. In terms of the gearbox, hey why improve on something that aint broke. Its only partially custom (The side plates would be custom) but still sleek and easy to replace if broken. Of course unlike your design it isn't a shifting transmition.

[NickE]

To save a bit of weight, you could probably go with smaller sprockets.
Are you using 25 or 35 chain?

Also, what is the material for the gearbox sideplates?
254 typically uses Delrin, as it is much lighter than aluminum and strong enough for this application

Finally, when looking at your picture, there are grooves cut out in the front of the side tubing.
Am i correct in thinking that you will be putting another black crossbar in the front?

[Joe Matt]

Maverick is fun

[roboticWanderor]

Is this a challenge??
Seriously, looks good. very innovative way to attach the side rails. I'm gonna have to steal that idea about that crossbeam going though the entire rail. I like it.

[Madison]

Originally Posted by roboticWanderor

Is this a challenge??
Seriously, looks good. very innovative way to attach the side rails. I'm gonna have to steal that idea about that crossbeam going though the entire rail. I like it.

What benefit does it provide that you don't have now?

Passing the cross members through the side rails makes the design more complicated to manufacture and absorbs impacts as shear against the pin instead of compression of the tubing.

[roboticWanderor]

Originally Posted by M. Krass

What benefit does it provide that you don't have now?

Passing the cross members through the side rails makes the design more complicated to manufacture and absorbs impacts as shear against the pin instead of compression of the tubing.

I was assuming that the cross beams were welded in the hole. assuming the weld has proper penetration, the crossbeams would both be able to sustain compression loads just as well, as well as supporting loads from the front of the chassis without shearing the weld. I think we're already going to have to machine the 1x2 rails, what is one more op?

[Madison]

Originally Posted by roboticWanderor

I was assuming that the cross beams were welded in the hole. assuming the weld has proper penetration, the crossbeams would both be able to sustain compression loads just as well, as well as supporting loads from the front of the chassis without shearing the weld. I think we're already going to have to machine the 1x2 rails, what is one more op?

I believe Alex's intent was that the cross members be pinned in place, making the side rails removable. Welding them would place them into compression and be fine -- but if you're going to weld them, why bother machining a hole into the side rail at all?

Again, though, it's all a matter of weighing the good against the bad. Machining work is resource and time intensive, so we prioritize other solutions. For some folks, it's a way of ensuring quality workmanship and isn't an undue burden.

[Alex.Norton]

Originally Posted by NickE

To save a bit of weight, you could probably go with smaller sprockets.
Are you using 25 or 35 chain?

Also, what is the material for the gearbox sideplates?
254 typically uses Delrin, as it is much lighter than aluminum and strong enough for this application

Finally, when looking at your picture, there are grooves cut out in the front of the side tubing.
Am i correct in thinking that you will be putting another black crossbar in the front?

The sprockets are for #25 chain. The reason that they are so large is because I was originally planning on using cross braces that are as tall as the sides and the sprockets would need the chain to clear them. I simply haven't been motivated to change them.

The side plates are currently aluminum but theres no reason they need to stay that way. The grooves in the front to so that the sides are identical and can be switched without needing to have one of each. The actual would probably use another to mount bumpers.

[NickE]

Originally Posted by Alex.Norton

The sprockets are for #25 chain. The reason that they are so large is because I was originally planning on using cross braces that are as tall as the sides and the sprockets would need the chain to clear them. I simply haven't been motivated to change them.

As a compromise, you could always make the front and back crossbraces the full height of the sidebeams, and use the half size ones for the in-between crossbraces.

This would allow you to keep the sprockets small and to still retain more strength than having all half size crossbeams.

Originally Posted by roboticWanderor

Is this a challenge??

It should be! CAD off! Gogogogogogo!