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#1
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Re: Rivet Nuts and Rivet Studs
Quote:
We did have problems when using locktite to hold the threads though. The rivet nut would slip in its hole before the locktite would break when trying to remove a bolt, causing the rivet nut to just spin freely. The only way we found to remove it then was to clamp the two surfaces together, putting more pressure on the flange of the rivet nut and thus holding it in place enough to remove the bolt. In a non-FIRST robot, I have had problems with rivet nuts rattling loose in serious off-road conditions, but this shouldn't be a problem when rolling on carpet as long as your initial hole is the correct size (just like others have said). |
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#2
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Re: Rivet Nuts and Rivet Studs
I used about a dozen 1/4-20 nut rivets on this year's robot for mounting chain tensioners and mechanical stops to our arm. It was my first experience using them, and it worked quite well. Both applications were places where we had a large tube with wires inside, which I could not (or did not want to attempt) to drill a through-hole in. They were very light-duty applications, as any forces would be applied parallel the bolt, in an inward direction. I would not use them in any situation where the bolt could conceivably be pulled out, or where a significant moment could be applied. They're just not that durable, and the aluminum ones in particular can strip very easily.
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#3
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Re: Rivet Nuts and Rivet Studs
Team 980 uses Riv-Nuts where we rather not just use a rivet. If you use them, you won't have to deal with nuts that fall into the least accessible places on the robot.
When we want easy access under a lexan panel, we'll use Riv-nut/fastener combos there. Try 'm, you'll like 'm! ![]() |
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#4
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Re: Rivet Nuts and Rivet Studs
our team uses rivets to attatch our wheel tread to our drive wheels.
we also use them on the roller wheels at the end of our claw. |
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