New Ctrl Sys Early Ship - Benchtop Test

[Steve Ketron]

Originally Posted by Mark McLeod

If you get any response I'd consider it a successful bench test.
It just means all the parts from the DS to the motor are working together.

In OTB Teleop we only saw Joystick on USB 1 arcade action (w/button pressed) on pwms 1-4, neutral on pwms 5-10, no other button effects noted.

No response to a usb 2 joystick.

The jumpers in the prescribed positions did not affect results, but we didn't try all the other possible jumper positions.

If you add an Allen Bradley light to the hardware setup it won't come on either (but it works with the non-OTB default software update).

P.S.
Send my regards to Nataloia

I talked with a FIRST Staff Engineer today about this problem, she said that she just found out today that the joystick adjustment knob (the control switch that looks like last year joystick calibrator) also dictates if a joystick is to be used for arcade or tank drive. I have been at a conference and I am unable to test this information. Try to adjust the this and see if it works.

[rwood359]

Originally Posted by Steve Ketron

I talked with a FIRST Staff Engineer today about this problem, she said that she just found out today that the joystick adjustment knob (the control switch that looks like last year joystick calibrator) also dictates if a joystick is to be used for arcade or tank drive. I have been at a conference and I am unable to test this information. Try to adjust the this and see if it works.

This is true after you have updated the firmware in the DS and reimaged the cRIO.
The OTB program uses Drivers Station Digital Input 1 to select between tank and arcade. The documentation says to install the jumper from signal to +5 to select arcade mode and no jumpers for tank mode. This works for some but not all systems. The DS DI inputs are floating so they can be in any state without jumpers. Install a jumper between Ground and Signal on DS DI 1 to select tank mode in OTB mode. We used a PWM cable with black and white tied together.

[Tank2010]

We are having problems with the bench top tank drive test. When the controller in USB port 1 is moved both motors spin and the jaguars indicate in opposite directions. The controller in USB port 2 does nothing. We have tried flipping the controllers and USB ports. We switched sidecars and modules. To no avail. Can we get some help?

[rwood359]

Originally Posted by Tank2010

We are having problems with the bench top tank drive test. When the controller in USB port 1 is moved both motors spin and the jaguars indicate in opposite directions. The controller in USB port 2 does nothing. We have tried flipping the controllers and USB ports. We switched sidecars and modules. To no avail. Can we get some help?

The documentation says to install a jumper from signal to +5 for arcade mode and no jumper for tank mode. The inputs on the DS are floating, so you need to install a jumper between signal and ground on DS DI 1 to select tank mode. We used a PWM cable and tied black to white and installed the three pin cable on the DS.

[Ziaholic]

Team 2449 is also on the list of A-OK outta' the box testing.

Our tank and arcade tele-op setups worked just fine, and we didn't need to tie down any floating inputs. Both joysticks performed as advertised. And the Jaguar controllers performed great. (my first time w/ Jag's, looking forward to seeing what they can do)

Our Autonomous mode operated both motors for 2 seconds.

We haven't progressed to the wireless and/or firmware updates yet, but will tackle that (and more) this weekend.

Our only "hiccup" to report at the moment is a 5v status LED on our PD that doesn't want to illuminate. But I've read that we are not alone and the 5v bus is working, it's just the LED that isn't. (we haven't proven that yet, but I'm optimistic)

My only complaint was that I had to steal the 120amp main breaker from our '08 bot to get our test up and running. I think they should've tossed one of those into our "early" kit of parts.

NOTE: When instructed to add the 2nd jumper for Auton mode(on Digi-In2), we did NOT remove the 1st jumper (on Digi-In1). I'm not sure if it's relevent, but some of the failed auton folks might try that.

[blhenze]

When doing the bench top the 12 V LED and the 24 V LED lit, the 5 V LED did not. Does something requiring 5 V need to be attached to make it light or are we doing something incorrectly?

[Mark McLeod]

Originally Posted by blhenze

When doing the bench top the 12 V LED and the 24 V LED lit, the 5 V LED did not. Does something requiring 5 V need to be attached to make it light or are we doing something incorrectly?

You're probably okay.
Many teams have reported that just the 5v LED isn't working, but the WAGO outlet actually does have 5v power.
Your camera gets wired into that.

[billbo911]

I just heard on my way home from work that the kit was delivered to the home of the teams adviser. He will be bringing it to the school tomorrow. I asked him to have the kids inventory it first, then start following the documentation to do the OBT. I will be tied up at a management luncheon tomorrow until mid afternoon, so much for sneaking out early.

I only have one question now, how am I going to sleep tonight?