Trailer hitch spacer info???

[writchie]

Please note that the drawing 09040 Rev A is now misleading. The changes in 9036 Rev B are not reflected.

Also note that the hitch arrangement of the team trailer as specified in the team drawings no longer has characteristics similar to the official part.

If you don't mind towing a boat trailer with a 2 /5/16 hitch with a 2 inch ball on your vehicle, then this "fine point" probably won't matter to you. If you've ever mismatched the hitch and ball sizes you'll have some idea of the effect of this change.

Make sure you load ALL of the latest drawings or you may have some surprises awaiting at competition.

[Vikesrock]

Originally Posted by writchie

Also note that the hitch arrangement of the team trailer as specified in the team drawings no longer has characteristics similar to the official part.

I don't believe I have the time or the spacial visualization skills to understand the full effects of the changes to the trailer hitch swivel.

If possible could you elaborate on the characteristics which differ from the team trailer mock-ups and suggest a way that teams could modify their team spec. trailers to behave more like the competition trailers (if this can be done)?

[writchie]

Originally Posted by Vikesrock

I don't believe I have the time or the spacial visualization skills to understand the full effects of the changes to the trailer hitch swivel.

If possible could you elaborate on the characteristics which differ from the team trailer mock-ups and suggest a way that teams could modify their team spec. trailers to behave more like the competition trailers (if this can be done)?

The change enlarged the close fit 0.26 dia hole for the hitch pin to 0.375 dia. This allows the orientation to move about plus or minus 10 degrees in pitch and roll instead of being essentially locked.

The easiest way to get close is to use the 0.625 aluminum shaft in the kit (assuming you haven't used it for other things) and bore a 0.375 hole matching 9036B. You can also round the edges of the rod. You then need to shorten the galvanized section, and drill a couple of holes vertically and horizontally to lock the aluminum pin to the tongue. This will get you close.

The aluminum is not as durable as the 1018 steel but should behave pretty much the same until you wear it out.

[MrForbes]

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. It was pretty well hidden...