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#1
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
As an electrical guy, I'm going to give you electrical feedback.
Why do you have two digital sidecars? You appear to only have two victors, and unless you are using every relay in your possession, I think you will find you only need one. Second have you tried orienting the battery that way, more specifically with the contacts down? The battery has significantly thicker wires than the rest of the electronics, and I am not sure if the wires will agree to that orientation. Thirdly, as squirrel said, you may want to reconsider the placement of the breaker. Otherwise it looks like a fantastic set up. |
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#2
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Thank you very much everyone for your feedback.
![]() I am about to restart this design in order to take in everyone's opinions. The battery will be changed to upright and it will have its own mount. It will now have mounts for the bumpers. The breaker will indeed be moved to a better location. 1 sidecar. Tanis - I wasn't sure on the sidecars for how many we would need. last year we hooked up enough switches to 1 of then to fill up one side. We most likely wont be doing that many list year. I don't plan on putting in the second sidecar. No. I haven't and the largest gauge wire I found was 16. The batteries wire is 12. (I was head of the electrical team, but not there for kick off so I didn't know how annoying that cable gets. When we moved the mount we just kept all the 12 gauge wire the same. ) |
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#3
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Excellent work.
As you reorient the battery and main breaker, consider that these are the wires that you want to keep as short as reasonable, since they carry the greatest current. Also, the battery connector needs to be considered, since teammates will be connecting and disconnecting that battery often. An alternative to gusset bars are plates, triangular in shape as you ahve the bars, but they are easier to fabricate and mount without welding. Lastlly, consider how the wheels are driven, since sprockets have a thickness that cannot be ignored. Oh, and think about how to mount bumpers, assuming they'll be a good idea for the 2010 game. |
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#4
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Quote:
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#5
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
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#6
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Quote:
Serves me right for missing kick off... Thank you very much for correcting me. ![]() Makes ya wonder how the bot didn't blow when I wired it... Last edited by Rion Atkinson : 22-08-2009 at 12:43. |
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#7
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Looks good... just a couple of suggestions:
- The angle bracing on your frame is excellent for structure, but they take up a bunch of space. One thing you could do instead is to replace the angle tube with an angled sheet brace on the bottom. This way, you could give your battery some more room, moving it away from the PD board. - Leave room to put in a 2nd motor on the Super Shifters. Sometimes you need 2 per gearbox, sometimes you don't. If you leave room in the layout for 2 motors, you won't need to move things around later. It takes guts to post your designs. Good for you for making a great design and showing it to us. Sincerely, Andy Baker |
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#8
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Another thing to remember on the supershifters you don't have any way to shift them shown (pneumatic or servo) which is something to remember because it all takes up space
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#9
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
Another electrical suggestion. Don't mount your gaming adapter down low in the frame especially that close to your high current victors and CIMs. You want the radio higher in the robot and away from sources of interference for optimal data transmission and minimal data loss.
I also agree that unless you have a very complicated robot, you'll likely only need one digital sidecar. On wire size, the lower the AWG (American Wire Gauge) number, the larger the wire, more current carrying capacity, and lower resistance per foot resulting in lower voltage drop. Therfore, #6 is supplied in the KOP for your main power circuits, but you could use #4 and it would be legal. In cases where #16 is recommended you could use #14, 12, or 10 if you felt that voltage drop would be a significant issue and it would be legal. Just remember, larger wire is more weight, so unless you know you have a voltage drop issue, it's probably unnecessary. Voltage drop is also directly related to efficiency. Voltage drop and wire resistance is Watts of wasted energy in heat. This can have a serious impact on battery performance when dealing with mechanisms which run at full power for long periods of time during a match. Vacuum venturis, high speed shooters and collector mechanisms are certainly worth watching for energy losses. Keep thinking up new designs you're on the right track. |
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#10
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
OK,
Electrical guy checking in...As Art and Jim have pointed out, you want to increase the size of your wire. Robot rules for many years have specified #6 minimum for all primary wiring. i.e. battery to main breaker to power distribution. Although robot rules allow for #12 for devices fed from 40 amp breakers we use and recommend #10. You can use the battery as counter weight so be ready to move it as needed. The power distro is better suited in the center of the robot. It is in this way that wire runs are minimized and balanced between the two sides of the robot. I can't tell you how many teams have come to me complaining they can't get the robot running straight when they have six feet of wire feeding the motors on one side and six inches of wire feeding the other. Although someone suggested to point the battery contacts down, I don't recommend this. Our high current applications will cause some venting from time to time and you (and the robot inspector) can't see if the terminals are getting into trouble when the battery is mounted that way. Remember that the sidecars do not pass a lot of current so they may be placed almost anywhere. I am suspecting a change in radios so don't dedicate yourself to that size package but do plan on getting it up out of the metallic clutter. In addition to the noise, there is significant reflections of RF down among the metallic parts. |
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#11
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
That you everyone for all the help!
Every bit of it has been taken into consideration. (On the wires.. The largest I can get is 8 gauge... Does anyone know how to make Inventor make 6 or 4 gauge wires?) |
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#12
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Re: pic: Chassis Idea
you have to create your own style for it or you can be lazy and just change the size of the segment.
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