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Unread 20-09-2009, 22:29
Matt382 Matt382 is offline
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Re: 25 Series Chain

I just want to add a few things about #25 chain. You can really only buy master links for #25 chain online, most local retailers won't have any smaller than #35. Also, the clips on the master links really like to pop off (it has happened to our robot twice last year, once during build, once during a match, and our chains were properly alligned with little or no twisting forces). Check them frequently to see if they are bent if you can, and if you have to take on off, replace it with a different clip.
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Unread 20-09-2009, 23:48
AustinSchuh AustinSchuh is offline
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt382 View Post
Also, the clips on the master links really like to pop off (it has happened to our robot twice last year, once during build, once during a match, and our chains were properly alligned with little or no twisting forces).
Interesting. Apart from one time*, I've never had that problem on any of the bots I've helped with. That comes from 3 years of using #25 chain on 971's drivetrains and arms, and mentoring 254 this year (though I haven't heard of them having trouble with that in the past either). I'd say you guys need to make sure that the clip on the master link seats in it's grove before you call it done.

*The only problem I have ever had with that was when the kid who cut the chain to the right length inadvertently pried apart the sides of the link with the chain breaker so that it was too wide for the clip on the masterlink to seat. He didn't know that that could happen and cause a problem, so he didn't worry about it when he cut the chain. I carefully squeezed it back into shape with a wrench, and we never had a problem again.
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Unread 21-09-2009, 06:44
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Re: 25 Series Chain

25 chain should be strong enough for pretty much all applications on a first robot. My team used it on our swerve steering in 2008, and never had a problem.
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Unread 21-09-2009, 08:20
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Re: 25 Series Chain

We use #25 and custom built adjustable chain tensioners for the obvious reasons and for wheel alignment.
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Unread 21-09-2009, 09:11
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Re: 25 Series Chain

1771 has used #25 chain as our drive chain for the past two years w/o a failure. Although the floor and wheels made this year a poor example since they limit the stress on the whole drive train.
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Unread 21-09-2009, 10:08
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Re: 25 Series Chain

I would recommend using a spring tensioner for it, because this way you're guaranteed to have tight chain. The problem with adjustable chain tensioners with screw adjustments is that they can come loose.
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Unread 21-09-2009, 17:54
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Starting in 2007, we at 1251 have used nothing but 25 chain and have never had any issues with it. We have done both drive system and arm mechanisms, the chain is strong enough for most applications as long as the alignment and tension is good.
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Unread 19-11-2009, 13:31
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Re: 25 Series Chain

We are wondering what teams use for a chain breaker.
We have tried all the standard ones.... and even modified a bicycle one.
None of them work decently... What is everyone else doing to break #25 chain?
The public wants to know!!???

We have resorted to using an anvil with a slot and hole and a punch.
Is anyone doing anything better?

thanks for your help!!

oh by the way we used #25 chain exclusively on our Swerve drive last year... no problems other than a resonance problem on a long chain run which we solved by putting in two "wave busters"...
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Unread 19-11-2009, 13:47
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Steele View Post
We are wondering what teams use for a chain breaker.
Team 234 took a #35 chain break (the easy-turn style on McMaster) apart and turned down the "point" that actually pushes the pins out so that it went deeper into the #25 chain. Then, we put the chain in a vice, where we use a punch we made to finish the job. It's probably not ideal, but it gets the job done and doesn't harm the chain too much.

With #25, it's all about patience.
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Unread 19-11-2009, 14:11
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Yeah,
we figured out very soon that a chain tensioner is a must and done properly.
For our West Coast drive chassis, we use #35 bike chain instead. Weight of a 25 chain, but size/strength of a 35.
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Unread 19-11-2009, 14:12
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by waialua359 View Post
Yeah,
we figured out very soon that a chain tensioner is a must and done properly.
For our West Coast drive chassis, we use #35 bike chain instead. Weight of a 25 chain, but size/strength of a 35.
interesting.... You have a link? What's the weight per foot?
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Unread 19-11-2009, 14:17
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHeard View Post
interesting.... You have a link? What's the weight per foot?
Let me find the data and get back to you.
We've been using 35 bike chain since 1997 with our human driven Electric Vehicles and carried it over to our FRC robots in 2007 once we went with the WC drive chassis.
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Unread 20-11-2009, 22:38
Dad1279 Dad1279 is offline
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Steele View Post
..... What is everyone else doing to break #25 chain?
The public wants to know!!???
......
We use a bench grinder or dremel, and grind off the tips of the pins, then the link pops right out.
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Unread 22-11-2009, 09:34
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Re: 25 Series Chain

Ditto on grinding the pins. It can be done very quickly on a bench grinder though it does get a little hot on the fingers if you hurry it.
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Unread 22-11-2009, 19:07
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Re: 25 Series Chain

No doubt that grinding is a quick way of breaking chain...but; the beauty of the Dark Soul unit mentioned above is that it also re-assembles the chain, eliminating master links.
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