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#1
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Re: 25 Series Chain
I just want to add a few things about #25 chain. You can really only buy master links for #25 chain online, most local retailers won't have any smaller than #35. Also, the clips on the master links really like to pop off (it has happened to our robot twice last year, once during build, once during a match, and our chains were properly alligned with little or no twisting forces). Check them frequently to see if they are bent if you can, and if you have to take on off, replace it with a different clip.
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#2
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Re: 25 Series Chain
Quote:
*The only problem I have ever had with that was when the kid who cut the chain to the right length inadvertently pried apart the sides of the link with the chain breaker so that it was too wide for the clip on the masterlink to seat. He didn't know that that could happen and cause a problem, so he didn't worry about it when he cut the chain. I carefully squeezed it back into shape with a wrench, and we never had a problem again. |
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#3
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Re: 25 Series Chain
25 chain should be strong enough for pretty much all applications on a first robot. My team used it on our swerve steering in 2008, and never had a problem.
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#4
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Re: 25 Series Chain
We use #25 and custom built adjustable chain tensioners for the obvious reasons and for wheel alignment.
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#5
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Re: 25 Series Chain
1771 has used #25 chain as our drive chain for the past two years w/o a failure. Although the floor and wheels made this year a poor example since they limit the stress on the whole drive train.
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#6
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Re: 25 Series Chain
I would recommend using a spring tensioner for it, because this way you're guaranteed to have tight chain. The problem with adjustable chain tensioners with screw adjustments is that they can come loose.
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#7
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Re: 25 Series Chain
Starting in 2007, we at 1251 have used nothing but 25 chain and have never had any issues with it. We have done both drive system and arm mechanisms, the chain is strong enough for most applications as long as the alignment and tension is good.
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#8
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Re: 25 Series Chain
We are wondering what teams use for a chain breaker.
We have tried all the standard ones.... and even modified a bicycle one. None of them work decently... What is everyone else doing to break #25 chain? The public wants to know!!??? We have resorted to using an anvil with a slot and hole and a punch. Is anyone doing anything better? thanks for your help!! oh by the way we used #25 chain exclusively on our Swerve drive last year... no problems other than a resonance problem on a long chain run which we solved by putting in two "wave busters"... |
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#9
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Re: 25 Series Chain
Team 234 took a #35 chain break (the easy-turn style on McMaster) apart and turned down the "point" that actually pushes the pins out so that it went deeper into the #25 chain. Then, we put the chain in a vice, where we use a punch we made to finish the job. It's probably not ideal, but it gets the job done and doesn't harm the chain too much.
With #25, it's all about patience. |
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#10
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Re: 25 Series Chain
Yeah,
we figured out very soon that a chain tensioner is a must and done properly. For our West Coast drive chassis, we use #35 bike chain instead. Weight of a 25 chain, but size/strength of a 35. |
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#11
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Re: 25 Series Chain
interesting.... You have a link? What's the weight per foot?
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#12
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Re: 25 Series Chain
Let me find the data and get back to you.
We've been using 35 bike chain since 1997 with our human driven Electric Vehicles and carried it over to our FRC robots in 2007 once we went with the WC drive chassis. |
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#13
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Re: 25 Series Chain
We use a bench grinder or dremel, and grind off the tips of the pins, then the link pops right out.
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#14
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Re: 25 Series Chain
Ditto on grinding the pins. It can be done very quickly on a bench grinder though it does get a little hot on the fingers if you hurry it.
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#15
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Re: 25 Series Chain
No doubt that grinding is a quick way of breaking chain...but; the beauty of the Dark Soul unit mentioned above is that it also re-assembles the chain, eliminating master links.
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