Blinking Robot Status Light!

[mbailey]

So, our robot control system from last year was working well and I wasn’t worried too much that our lead programmer had graduated and our computer geek mentor had to spend extra time at work and miss our build season – UNTIL, we wired the robot controller for this year and problems developed. I now have some questions and would appreciate any advice available:

1. Does the analogy bumper HAVE to be connected to cRIO for the control system to work? We assumed it was not needed but didn’t see battery voltage on Classmate. Once the analogy bumper was inserted and powered up (12V), the battery voltage appeared on Classmate. What else should we know about the analog bumper?!
2. What about the solenoid bumper? We have it wired at 24V and have used it to activate a solenoid for the pneumatics. Is it necessary to be plugged into the cRIO IF we were not using pneumatics?
3. How do you determine if cRIO is “fried” or is not working properly? We had wired the whole robot control board for this year and got a blinking robot status light at the digital sidecar. We disconnected everything except one speed controller (we’re using Victors) and still had a slow blink most of the time and an occasional fast-slow blink. Interestingly, the green LED on sidecar and the orange status light don’t blink at the same frequency -- does that indicate the La-Lb jumper is missing? By the way, the Victor “trouble light” is orange (no signal).
4. Is there a photo available (or simple directions) for wiring the robot control?
5. Is there an explanation of the purpose(s) of the cRIO connections? – I see the “pin-out” diagram, but remember that I am not a control expert and most of the time the pin-out doesn’t tell me much!
6. Is there a listing of the lights (above the DIP switches) on the cRIO and which should be on/off when?!

[EricH]

1) It's a rule that you have to have a 9201 module with the Analog Breakout in Slot 1 of the cRIO chassis. (<R66>)
2) If you aren't using pneumatics, I can't find anything saying that you have to have it aboard.
3-6) See the control system manual.

Question on the light: What module and slot is the board connected into? It's supposed to be a 9403 module in slot 4.

[mbailey]

Yep, 9403 in slot 4.

Since we seem to have a few bugs running around, I've been trying to find out WHY something works (er, doesn't work). That's why I was wondering about the analog bumper. Does it provide any function other than to ensure that battery voltage shows on Classmage? -- give or take the FIRST rules!!

I may be getting closer on the other items. Interesting how the FRC documents refer to the Control System documents and the Control System documets link to National Instruments. And a couple of those suggest that their information may not meet FRC rules!! Oh well, somebody asked if I had read the manuals. . . !

Thanks.

[Mark McLeod]

I'll add to Eric's answers.

The only required cRIO Modules are an Analog Module in slot 1 (solely for battery feedback), and a Digital Module in Slot 4 (to feed the RSL).
All unused others can and probably should be removed (and the exposed connector covered with the black rubber caps).


If you have a blinking RSL, then your cRIO is working, not fried.
Usually it blinks because it's disabled and can only be enabled by the Driver Station.
A solid Victor orange light is good. It means the Victor is receiving a neutral signal from the cRIO. It'll remain neutral as long as the RSL has a steady blink, because it's disabled.


The control wiring diagram is here: http://www.usfirst.org/uploadedFiles...t_data_enc.pdf
There are a lot of photos on CD, unfortunately they are embedded in threads for the most part.

I'm not sure which cRIO pinouts you're interested in. The Modules all have connecting Breakouts or Sidecars. Do you want a breakdown of what all those pins do or are used for?

The cRIO status LEDs above the DIP switches should all normally be off except for the "Power".
The "Status" will blink yellow when the cRIO is reset and booting or when it's a brand new cRIO without an image.

[ATannahill]

Originally Posted by mbailey

3. How do you determine if cRIO is “fried” or is not working properly? We had wired the whole robot control board for this year and got a blinking robot status light at the digital sidecar. We disconnected everything except one speed controller (we’re using Victors) and still had a slow blink most of the time and an occasional fast-slow blink. Interestingly, the green LED on sidecar and the orange status light don’t blink at the same frequency -- does that indicate the La-Lb jumper is missing? By the way, the Victor “trouble light” is orange (no signal).
4. Is there a photo available (or simple directions) for wiring the robot control?

I am not sure what happens if you are missing the La-Lb jumper, I presume if the light is behaving weirdly without it, you might try installing the jumper.
Is the victor light solid or blinking orange. Solid means neutral signal, blinking means no signal. (disabled or not properly plugged in)
Make sure your digital side car is getting 12 volts.

As for wiring from A to B, I like http://usfirst.org/uploadedFiles/Com...t_data_enc.pdf

If you need help with how to wire please ask a more specific question.

Mark beat me to it.

[Mark McLeod]

The Orange robot light will blink constantly if the La/Lb jumper is not installed. It won't echo or repeat the Digital Sidecar RSL.

[mbailey]

Great comments -- especially the one that suggests that the cRIO is not fried!!

I was not clear on my Victor orange light comments (in my earlier posting). It actually WAS blinking -- I knew it meant "no signal", but that wasn't worrying me too much, yet!

Good info about the cRIO LED's. We only have the top light on, with the status light blinking on momentarily when we load the program.

I think we're getting close (closER anyway). I just hate to spend hours looking for something in the programming or downstream of the cRIO if we have a problem in the cRIO, itself. Sounds like it's time to keep on trouble-shooting.

Thanks for the gracious and professional help.

[Mike AA]

Check your pwm cables leading to the victors. They can often get put into an incorrect location on the victor that they feel connected but not quite. Simply pull the cable back out and try it again.