Weird Chain tensioner.

[11douglash]

Hi...

I'm designing a standardized Drive Train that will hopefully be used in many subsequent years for my team.

It is a 6wd, using 35 chain.

I came across this chain tensioner: McMaster-Carr part # 5896K1, http://www.mcmaster.com/#chain-tensioners/=730zh2.

Has anyone used these before? How well do they work?

Thanks

[Dave McLaughlin]

Some people might refer to that as a floating tensioner. Many teams have used them in the past and them seem to work well in the right application.

[Mark McLeod]

We used them on an arm chain once and it worked well, but with a long run flexing from quick direction reversals can cause them to fall out. We added a retaining system.

[Rion Atkinson]

I would also recommend using this. It works quite well, and be used in more than the way shown.

Just wondering, can I get a peak at this drive train?

-Rion

[11douglash]

Thank you. Yes, There would be a retaining system: the main structural supports for the DT would go straight through the floating tensioners.


Formerly Famous: Once I have it CADded, sure, i guess...

[artdutra04]

Originally Posted by 11douglash

I came across this chain tensioner: McMaster-Carr part # 5896K1, http://www.mcmaster.com/#chain-tensioners/=730zh2.

Has anyone used these before? How well do they work?

We've used similar floating idlers machined out of .125 Lexan for 25-pitch roller chain. As long as you pay attention and keep adjusting their position until the chain stops stretching, they work great.

[Wiz]

We actually made our own version of the AndyMark style, without the rubber band fingers, but still using the zip ties, and it worked quite well.

There is another page of chain tensioners at McM-C, with a more expensive and sophisticated variation of the AndyMark one: http://www.mcmaster.com/#chain-tensioners/=74adn5

Go to page 1022, or part number 5973K2

[joeweber]

You can eliminate the need for a chain tensioner if you preassemble the sprockets and chain than measure the distance to center, than build the distance into your frame. As long as you only have two sprockets in each chain set it’s a piece of cake. This will also save some weight.

[artdutra04]

Originally Posted by joeweber

You can eliminate the need for a chain tensioner if you preassemble the sprockets and chain than measure the distance to center, than build the distance into your frame. As long as you only have two sprockets in each chain set it’s a piece of cake. This will also save some weight.

I've found that this only works for chain runs with a center-to-center (CTC) distance of less than about six or so inches for 25-pitch chain. If using 25-pitch roller chain with CTC distances of greater than about six inches, chain stretch becomes large enough that it can cause performance issues without a chain tensioner.

[M.Wong]

In the past couple of years, we have built in quite a bit of tolerance in they way we mount our transmissions and motors. We will usually have slotted holes in our chassis for mounting, allowing us to adjust for small amounts of chain stretch.

We have not determined whether or not this affects performance or autonomous.

[joeweber]

Originally Posted by artdutra04

I've found that this only works for chain runs with a center-to-center (CTC) distance of less than about six or so inches for 25-pitch chain. If using 25-pitch roller chain with CTC distances of greater than about six inches, chain stretch becomes large enough that it can cause performance issues without a chain tensioner.

That sounds good for a six wheel drive, three wheels with a motor and gears between each wheel.


" O o O o O "

[Ryan Dognaux]

This can also be done if you have an extra sprocket laying around that is larger than the two sprockets that your chain is running on. We've called it the floating sprocket - it's a real quick way to tension your chain if you're in a pinch and it works surprisingly well.

[Enigma's puzzle]

but usually if you plan for it and buy some "add in" masterlinks which is a half a link you can usually be close enough to make it without tensioners, and you can determine if you need them as you build the chain http://www.mcmaster.com/#chain-links/=7540yq

[Triple B]

For a drive base with skid steer & direct drive for your center wheels I would agree with "joeweber" that there is no need for chain tensioners. When the chain stretches to a length you deem too loose, then change the chains out. The tensioner may give you the illusion that your chains are in good condition when in fact the chains are still stretching you just dont know how much. Dont get me wrong, tensioners are nice but in my experience they are not always required. But I also like #25 (1/4") chain for everything.
mike d

[artdutra04]

Originally Posted by Triple B

For a drive base with skid steer & direct drive for your center wheels I would agree with "joeweber" that there is no need for chain tensioners. When the chain stretches to a length you deem too loose, then change the chains out. The tensioner may give you the illusion that your chains are in good condition when in fact the chains are still stretching you just dont know how much. Dont get me wrong, tensioners are nice but in my experience they are not always required. But I also like #25 (1/4") chain for everything.
mike d

At about $3/ft, throwing away stretched roller chain is a more expensive endeavor than installing a $0.50 chain tensioner.

Waste not, want not.