pic: My First WCD

[Edoc'sil]

Sorry I assumed that was what he was referring to. I did read you OP but is was a few days ago and I totally forgot. I have no idea what swimmer meant, he is hard to follow at best.

[R.C.]

Really Cool Chassis and a great start.

A Few Suggestions:

-Ever thought about riveting it all together and then adding a few welds? It would help make it easier to assemble and easier for our welder. We did that this year with our bottom part of our chassis.

-I would honestly pocket less. Its often way stronger to leave it unpocketed. I mean your only losing so much weight. Around the wheels and gearbox I would honestly unpocket it.

-Also wheels selection, why banebot wheels. We bought some a few years ago and the tread seems to wear very easily unless you get a high durometer. They are cheap, but I would switch to pneumatic wheels or Colsons. I'm sure Sean (1771) or someone can elaborate on Colson wheels.

A Few Questions:

-What gearbox is that: ratio, output speed and weight?

-Are you planning to mount electronics somewhere?

-For the chain tensioner, are you pinching the chain down or stretching it up?

Good Job and keep having fun.

-RC

[artdutra04]

Originally Posted by R.C.

-Also wheels selection, why banebot wheels. We bought some a few years ago and the tread seems to wear very easily unless you get a high durometer. They are cheap, but I would switch to pneumatic wheels or Colsons. I'm sure Sean (1771) or someone can elaborate on Colson wheels.

Colson wheels are very cheap (usually between $5 and $7 each), and can easily be adapted for a live axle drivetrain. The stock Colson wheels usually have a large ID shaft hole in the center that needs to have an adapter made to fit 1/2" or 3/8" shaft. We use 6061 aluminum for this adapter plug. Simply turn it on a lathe to a slight interference fit, and knurl the outside. Drill out the center and broach with either a keyway or hex broach. Use an arbor press to insert knurled plug into wheel. Done.

[sdcantrell56]

I would definitely recommend colsons as well. We did the same thing as art this year. Bought stock colsons and put hubs in them. They work great and are designed for durability whereas the banebot wheels are basically childs toys. I've seen and heard of way too many failures/manufacturing inconsistencies with the banebots to ever consider them.

[Brandon Holley]

Originally Posted by sdcantrell56

I would definitely recommend colsons as well. We did the same thing as art this year. Bought stock colsons and put hubs in them. They work great and are designed for durability whereas the banebot wheels are basically childs toys. I've seen and heard of way too many failures/manufacturing inconsistencies with the banebots to ever consider them.

Ditto on the Colsons, they are very robust wheels, and have a great grip on the carpet. However they do become pretty heavy when you start adding in the additional parts needed (ie: plug adapter for each wheel). Just another thing to consider in wheel selection.

-Brando

[Chris is me]

I've never seen Banebots wheels used successfully in a robot. I've heard of teams getting them with the bore off center by as much as half an inch. I've seen teams make them fail with only 3 seconds of load. I would go with AM, Colsons, your own wheels, etc. (or if you want to be super cool, take a scooter wheel and put it on your robot!!! no traction but who cares, they're awesome!)