Welding Advice

[Dick Linn]

The Diversion 180 model does include a foot pedal.

If you are concerned about quality and support, I'd go with Miller (or Lincoln or ESAB or Hobart).

If you have questions, join the Hobart forum at http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/ There are some very experienced members there who are happy to help.

[JamesCH95]

Originally Posted by Dick Linn

The Diversion 180 model does include a foot pedal.

I see that from Miller it is not included, but from CyberWeld it is. Weird.

[Scott L.]

You must use a stainless steel brush to clean aluminum, any carbon steel brush will leave impurites. This is what I was told by TIG welders and also from my own experience.

[DonRotolo]

Originally Posted by Dick Linn

Aluminum must be absolutely clean for successful welding. Sanding or grinding should be done with a tool dedicated to Aluminum only. Degrease with a solvent but DO NOT use anything containing a chlorinated hydrocarbon! Brush away any oxides just prior to welding using a stainless steel brush that is dedicated for use on Aluminum only.

Originally Posted by Katie_UPS

Never underestimate the value in Proper Surface Preparation.

Originally Posted by Scott L.

You must use a stainless steel brush to clean aluminum, any carbon steel brush will leave impurites.

It cannot be over-emphasized: ANY (any!) steel dust or even molecules will cause an Aluminum weld to be weak. ONLY Stainless steel brushes may be used, and these must never be used for any other metal. Get a small angle grinder as well.

Cleanliness is difficult but essential for welding aluminum. It oxidizes in a few seconds. Weld an inch or two, stop & clean, repeat.

Welding generates a lot of heat, and your metal will crack from thermal stress if you try to weld a long bead as one might attempt in steel. An inch at a time.

Acetone makes a suitable solvent, but of course it is dangerous and flammable.

Practice, practice, practice.

[jmichaelis]

Thank you all for the incredibly well thought out and thorough responses and advice. I think the best advice has been to reach out to an experienced welder locally. I'm currently hunting down a few leads with area colleges and pros, but if you have suggestions for someone from the Chicago area I'd be grateful. Again thanks for the huge response, its been really very valuable.

[roystur44]

For the biggest bang for your buck take a look at pop rivet technology. Joining two pieces of metal with pop rivets is fast and economical and in most cases can substitute for welding. As a mentor for the team I encourage the team to try to make use of fastener technology like pem nuts, nuts and bolts, and pop rivets before resorting to welding to join metal.


Roy

[Dick Linn]

In some cases, Team 975 used 10-32 cap screws to assemble a frame. Very strong and surprisingly cheap for a box of 100. Nyloc nuts were inexpensive as well. We got them at MSC.

[jtus]

Get a MIG. Miller has a lot of good options. It will weld aluminum much easer than TIG. Have someone help with the set up and you will have nice welds with little practice.
We have 2 mig wielders one for aluminum and one for steel. We also have a TIG but only two people can use it at all.