paper: Working with Wires ( striping, crimping, and soldering)

[nighterfighter]

Also, page 25: Step 11-

Step 11- Slide the heat shrink tubbing over the joint. Heat the center of the tubbing with the the iron part of the heating element (not the tip) of the soldering iron

You can also use a heat gun to get a more even distribution around the heat-shrink.
(You also mis-spelled "tubing")

And on page 29,

The Motors in your robot will connect to your speed controller using spade connectors like the one shown

You can also use these kind of connectors-
http://www.frys.com/product/2608042

And on the last page, page 34, you might want to mention that for connecting wires to the Spike Relay, use spade connectors-
http://www.frys.com/product/2604252?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

[ATannahill]

Originally Posted by nighterfighter

Also, page 25: Step 11-

And on page 29,



You can also use these kind of connectors-
http://www.frys.com/product/2608042[/qoute]

As discussed in another thread, fully removing the screws can get metal shavings in the motor controller.

Originally Posted by nighterfighter

And on the last page, page 34, you might want to mention that for connecting wires to the Spike Relay, use spade connectors-
http://www.frys.com/product/2604252?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

While that does seem to be the right part number, it is important to note the picture show a male connector instead of the female version that should be used. Be sure to get the right size for the wire being used.

[Ether]

Originally Posted by rtfgnow

As discussed in another thread, fully removing the screws can get metal shavings in the motor controller.

Only for the older Jags. The newer (Black) Jags have removable screws.

But your point is well taken. It would be helpful to explain that in the paper.

[s1900ahon]

In addition to fork or ring terminals, we may cut a slot in a ring terminal to make it into a hook.

But as pointed out, the Black Jaguars have non-captive screws, so they may be removed without leaving debris. However, I recommend only removing one at a time to avoid replacing the screws to the wrong posts.

[s1900ahon]

A couple of comments I would make to this presentation:
1. Wire cutters (especially when new) can be sharp. Watch your fingers.
2. I encourage our team (and others) to use ratcheting crimpers. The yellow handled tool shown in the slides is pure evil. Yeah, I know they're affordable, but they don't do as good a job at creating a secure connection.
3. No mention of wire gauge to the color of the terminal insulation. I.e. Using an incorrectly sized terminal for the wire may result in a crimp that will fail.
4. Maybe mention using non-insulated terminals, then crimp, solder, then insulate.
5. No mention of flux for soldering. The flux pens can be useful.
6. When soldering, I usually clean the tip first, then apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron (also having applied flux to the wires/components that I will be soldering). Having some molten solder on the tip aids the process. This is sort of shown in step 9 of the presented process.
7. Desoldering? Solder wick, etc.
8. Wow, a picture of a very early PD board.. with SLA'd enclosure and everything.
9. The digital breakout (DSC) can use a ribbon cable as an alternative to the cable provided in the KoP. Many teams use a ribbon cable because a) they can make it smaller (and lighter), and b) there is less stress on the connectors with a ribbon cable.