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#1
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
How do you follow the line with the camera? That sounds pretty awesome. You would probably have to go slow though because the camera's refresh rate is terrible.
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#2
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
Have you looked at the autonomous vi in the framework with game specific code?
Last edited by Joe Ross : 12-01-2011 at 20:42. |
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#3
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
NI has published a 2011 line tracking paper too.
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#4
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
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I would have to disagree with you on that. If done correctly, the camera would be significantly faster than the line tracking hardware. The line trackers only see a "pixel" compared to the camera's capabilities. Using trigonometric functions and may be some probability, it would be easy to navigate over the line. The lines are not gonna go anywhere, the software can make decisions ahead of time. Last edited by davidthefat : 12-01-2011 at 20:42. |
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#5
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
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#6
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
Now apparently our team flushed the whole idea of autonomous drive down the toilet. They do not trust me anymore. Last year our autonomous mode was absolutely hideous. It just barely worked and 90% of the it missed. Now long story short: the team captain comes to me literally the day before shipping "David I want you to get the autonomous to work" and then I see the IR sensor he installed in front of the kicker. So, I coded and debugged the autonomous code AT the competition... So that person might not be me. But certainly I will bring it up to my team that they indeed can trust me. I already got the drive working in 3 ways: linear, exponential and tank drive. They might even want a logarithmic one. Not hard at all can finish in 10 minutes. Now the autonomous might take a couple days, but sure check back with me next week.
Last edited by davidthefat : 12-01-2011 at 21:22. |
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#7
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
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I believe the average automated camera cap will be faster than a human cap, and more accurate than a line tracker cap. Personally for this task I would rather use dead reckoning than use a line tracker. If you threw a gyro and a range finder on your robot, figured out the distance and said drive straight, I think you could make the 75% cut off for autonomous Last edited by mwtidd : 12-01-2011 at 21:47. |
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#8
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
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#9
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
To address the OP, the light sensors are pretty easy to use... almost too easy.
They're purely digital. If you power them, you can use the indicator LED to calibrate them. The knob sets the sensitivity, so you don't have to set it in code. Two of the wires are for power, the other two are output. One is normally-open, the other is normally-closed. You only have to wire up one: I'd suggest normally-open, but do whichever makes more sense for you. Once its on your robot, you'll get a certain boolean value over light areas, and another over dark ones. Theoretically, you only need one sensor to track a line. Dark: go left, Light: go right; you'll end up following the right edge of the line. With two, you could have them strattle the line and react accordingly, giving you a bit more hysteresis. If your robot has an unconventional drive system, it will work on the same exact principle. I wouldn't think you would run into any additional problems unless your drive system itself fails. Strangely enough, I think KISS might apply here. If you can calibrate your encoders correctly, I wouldn't be surprised if you could forgo the line sensors entirely. Encoders aren't sensitive to light/field conditions, and they're extremely simple to mount. Also, the lines on the field help so much: the two end lines put you in the middle of two columns of pegs & you'll have to maneuver a bit more anyways. |
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#10
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
Going back to 04, buzz robotics used a line tracker. Note they had 5+ sensors on the front of their robot. And in that game, accuracy was much less of a requirement, hence why line tracking was a good strategy.
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#11
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
the way I am doing it is a variance of the software they give us
basically using the basic digital input keep going straight until the input returns a false then using a gyri scope and getting a value from it you can auto correct |
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#12
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
I am planning on using the light sensors as confirmation sensors possibly if I want the robot to go diagonal in autonomous. I do not know however, if the light sensor detects the red/blue & yellow pro gaff tape.
The sensors would confirm what "path" you are on alongside with an angle measurement and data from accelerometer/encoder, then use trigonometry to calculate the distance that the robot needs to be from the peg. Possibly use the camera then to once again confirm the distance and possibly the height of the arm. This is more for fun though, at the least we are going to have a mode that goes straight, using accelerometer data and camera to confirm distance from scoring peg. I guess the line can be used to stay on path if robot isn't straight but I have confidence in my team to align the robot. Last edited by MagiChau : 24-01-2011 at 06:04. |
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#13
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
This really helps, being boolean, but which wiring diagram do I use?
"Dual NPN and PNP outputs" or "NPN Outputs"? Yes, this is straight from the included instructions. |
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#14
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Re: 2011 "Light Sensor"
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The diagrams provided include "load", a resistor to pull-up the signal lines so they are high when not connected. The Digital Sidecar already provides those, so you just need to connect the brown to +12(red) on the PD board, blue to the gnd(black) on the PD board, and white or black to a SIG pin on one of the DIO ports on the digital sidecar. You don't need white and black, pick one. White will tell you when you see light, black will tell you when you see dark, so if you have one, you know the other. |
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#15
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HALELUJAH!
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