pic: sheet metal 6WD

[Rob Stehlik]

Overall, this is a solid looking design. I agree with previous recommendations that you don't cut away flanges for the gearboxes. It looks like you may have room to bend the flange towards the wheels. Also, depending on the manipulator required, you'll likely want an opening at the front of the frame.

Originally Posted by kajeevan

To answer a few questions,

I went with 1/8in Al trying to avoid having to put plates around the axles for strength and having to deal with smaller pieces. Also I was hoping to have the side plates tapped so I might not need nuts and just adjust the clutch on the drill to not strip the treads when inserting bolts.

I agree that using thicker material can be simpler than reinforcing thinner material. I'm not sure you should put threads into .125 aluminum though. It'll strip really easily. You should look into PEM nuts. They press into holes in your sheet metal and provide much stronger steel threads. We use them all the time. The correct way to install them is with a press, but we find just cranking them tight with a cap screw will seat the teeth into the aluminum just fine.

The chain is tensioned with a bent C-channel with extra flanges for strength that hug the axle and is pulled by one 5/16'' bolt. The chain can be tensioned up to 1''. If you look closely enough you can see it.

I like this design a lot! It looks like a great way to tension the chain. My only suggestion would be to put flanges at the front of the C-channel where the pull bolt goes through. Otherwise this area would bend quite easily. Also, why a 5/16" bolt? A 1/4" or even #10 bolt would be fine.

There is no base plate yet but will be once the function is decided and its worked around it. But the front and back plates connect the entire base together and act like a small base plate at the triangles preventing racking.

Triangles are good

Rob