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  #31   Spotlight this post!  
Unread 05-19-2017, 09:36 PM
mman1506 mman1506 is offline
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I think we gotta make it clear here.

Prusa i3 : A popular open source design that has been forked off into numerous variations. Most common of which are Chinese "generic" printers (they are not knockoffs or copies, many are unique designs based on the open source design files), many would consider lulzbot printers a fork of the prusa i3 printer.

Prusa i3 Mk2: The guy who designed the original prusa i3 started his own company that produces it's own variation of the prusa i3. While it may look similar it contains many small hardware and software improvements that make it one of the best printers on the market in terms of print quality, reliability and usability.

Personally I'd recommend that a FRC team buy a Prusa i3 Mk2 and not a "generic" Prusa i3. The cost of a Mk2 is still in a very reasonable range for a FRC team. Anything less is simply not worth the hassle for a IMO "non-essential" tool if your seriously interested in producing useful parts rather than spending your time messing with the printer.
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Unread 05-19-2017, 09:43 PM
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Re: 3d printers

If you can afford $3500, get a markforged onyx one.

It just works.

No finicking, no sprays, etc..... We bought one for work two weeks ago and have been running it near non stop. We're lazy, we're sloppy.... And it's making great parts with low hassle.

Don't waste time with hobby grade machines, get the real deal.
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Unread 05-19-2017, 10:35 PM
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3d printers

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHeard View Post
If you can afford $3500, get a markforged onyx one.

It just works.

No finicking, no sprays, etc..... We bought one for work two weeks ago and have been running it near non stop. We're lazy, we're sloppy.... And it's making great parts with low hassle.

Don't waste time with hobby grade machines, get the real deal.

Thanks for the recommendation Adam. We've been screwing with a SeeMe CNC hobbyist model for the last 2 months and it's a huge time and resource suck. I think maybe we'll step it up with one of those next season.

Do you find it only printing carbon fiber and a build area on the smaller side problematic at all?
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Unread 05-19-2017, 11:02 PM
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Re: 3d printers

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Originally Posted by frcguy View Post
Thanks for the recommendation Adam. We've been screwing with a SeeMe CNC hobbyist model for the last 2 months and it's a huge time and resource suck. I think maybe we'll step it up with one of those next season.

Do you find it only printing carbon fiber and a build area on the smaller side problematic at all?
It prints a carbon filled nylon, and I wouldn't consider the build area small at all.

It's surprisingly accurate, which I doubt the hobby machines are.

The interface to program it rocks too. I still haven't read the instructions and I've printed a lot of parts.
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Unread 05-19-2017, 11:43 PM
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Re: 3d printers

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHeard View Post
If you can afford $3500, get a markforged onyx one.

It just works.

No finicking, no sprays, etc..... We bought one for work two weeks ago and have been running it near non stop. We're lazy, we're sloppy.... And it's making great parts with low hassle.

Don't waste time with hobby grade machines, get the real deal.
If we're talking about $$$ printers, The Ultimaker 3 is absolutely amazing. My university has a bunch of Makerbot X2s and 2 Ultimakers, and I use the latter whenever I can. It's been precise enough to print VP-sized harmonic gears and other extremely fine parts. It also prints holes perfectly when they are upright, which lower grade printers simply cannot do.
We might be getting a Markforged in the future, but I heard it's not as accurate as the Ultimaker. I'll just have to wait and see a few months.
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Unread 05-20-2017, 11:34 AM
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Re: 3d printers

6065 has three 3D printers, one of which works. The one that works best is call an Athena, it's a RepRap printer meaning that it can print its own components. Our drafting instructor originally made it at a summer workshop for $500 but the other two Athenas that students have made have cost barely anything. Good resolution.
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Unread 05-21-2017, 10:39 AM
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Re: 3d printers

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Originally Posted by coalhot View Post
Quick note, if looking at printers in the $1,000-$2,000 range, I'd take a long look at the Lulzbot Taz 5 or 6. Super solid printers, huge build volume, ridiculously reliable. We've had a Taz 5 for the past 2.5 years that supports the CTE and FRC programs, I've had to change the PEI sheet once as far as maintenance goes, this for a printer that runs almost daily and is used primarily by high school students. As for price, a friend picked a Taz 6 off ebay a few months ago from a reseller, I think offered him $1500 for it. It seemed like an almost unused open box type of refurb.
We bought a TAZ 6 last year and are pretty happy with it. If you buy it through your school or a 501c3 they knock 5% off. I haven't used the Prusa so I can't provide a comparison.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Schreiber View Post
The bed is already PEI?
Yes it's really convenient actually. Parts just stick. The only thing to be careful of is running the Lulzbot N-gen material with default settings. You literally can't pull it off the bed.
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Unread 05-21-2017, 01:00 PM
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Re: 3d printers

I've been extremely pleased with my Taz 5, though it's pricier than the very good value hobby machines available these days (monoprice, Prusa, etc.).

I'm extremely interested in the Markforged printers. I think the capability vs. price point could be a paradigm shift technology for FRC.
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Unread 05-21-2017, 05:04 PM
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Re: 3d printers

No doubt about it, a pro printer can't be beat if it's in your budget. I used to work in a lab with a Stratasys printer, and it was the definition of plug-and-play. Aside from occassionally changing infill settings, the most I had to worry about was changing part orinetation to minimize support material use/maximize ability to chissel out support material VS waiting for it to disintegrate in the chemical bath.

On the other hand, I had the "fortune" of running a handful of hobby printers at a different workshop, and had the best experience with Dremel's first-gen Idea Builder, which is actually based on the FlashForge Dreamer. Both of our Idea Builders ran pretty much plug-and-play with Dremel-branded filament (PLA only, it has no heated bed), but I had some jamming issues with some third party filaments. I suspect this was due to tolerance differences between filament manufacturers. I measured out a handful of spools we had around with a caliper, but I don't recall how much variation there actually was.
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Last edited by josesantos : 05-21-2017 at 05:10 PM. Reason: formatting; added details; corrected printer model name
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Unread 05-21-2017, 07:10 PM
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Re: 3d printers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schreiber View Post
Yes it's really convenient actually. Parts just stick. The only thing to be careful of is running the Lulzbot N-gen material with default settings. You literally can't pull it off the bed.
I know bro. I have one sitting next to me right now I was questioning the comment someone made about it being a good upgrade.

RE N-Gen, if I recall correctly that's just another fancy name for some sort of TPU (flexible) blend. PET/PETG has a similar issue, a quick spray down with windex will help with that, can also use glue sticks but then you really have to clean the bed. For the TPU blends I found blue painters tape works well and cleanup is pretty easy.
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Unread 05-22-2017, 10:44 AM
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Re: 3d printers

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Originally Posted by asid61 View Post
If we're talking about $$$ printers, The Ultimaker 3 is absolutely amazing. My university has a bunch of Makerbot X2s and 2 Ultimakers, and I use the latter whenever I can. It's been precise enough to print VP-sized harmonic gears and other extremely fine parts. It also prints holes perfectly when they are upright, which lower grade printers simply cannot do.
We might be getting a Markforged in the future, but I heard it's not as accurate as the Ultimaker. I'll just have to wait and see a few months.
We have an Ultimaker 2 with 3rd party upgrades (basically the 2+) at the local hackerspace which I use heavily, I can attest to its accuracy. I think my comparison between the UM2(+) and the Markforged Onyx Pro we have is that the accuracy is quite close, but the Ultimaker can be pushed to print faster before losing accuracy VS default speeds with the Markforged (MF doesn't really give you the option to change movement speed in Eiger, just layer thickness). There's also a level of tuning we had to do on the UM2(+) that we didn't have to do with the Markforged.

Between the two, I'd rather have the Markforged. Onyx is a game-changer in terms of materials. I have yet to play with 3rd party CFF Nylon materials, but from what I've heard from friends who have used them is that most of them pale in comparison to Onyx.
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Unread 05-22-2017, 12:55 PM
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Re: 3d printers

Have not read through this entire thread so apologies if this printer was brought up, but, after quite a bit of research Code Orange (3476) is purchasing a Prusa MK2. About $600 if you build it yourself and pretty good for the price and an FRC application.
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Unread 05-22-2017, 01:14 PM
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Re: 3d printers

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Originally Posted by Pauline Tasci View Post
Have not read through this entire thread so apologies if this printer was brought up, but, after quite a bit of research Code Orange (3476) is purchasing a Prusa MK2. About $600 if you build it yourself and pretty good for the price and an FRC application.
I suggest reading the beginning of this thread.
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Unread 05-22-2017, 02:37 PM
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Re: 3d printers

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Originally Posted by IndySam View Post
I suggest reading the beginning of this thread.
...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauline Tasci View Post
Have not read through this entire thread so apologies if this printer was brought up
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Unread 05-22-2017, 05:30 PM
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Re: 3d printers

The two things I have not seen addressed are:
1. The cost of materials.
2. The cost of maintenance, if something happens/required by school.

It used to be that the cost of the machine was not the bulk of what you would be paying for, but the materials and maintenance were. Is this still the case?
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