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#1
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Re: Al's Annual Inspection Thread.
Doubtful. The 0.32 CV requirement is new enough that several years' KOP valves likely have not been vetted by FIRST. Also, inspectors are not typically provided with documentation for KOP valves, especially from previous years.
The best protection is to bring the manufacturer's documentation for the valve. |
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#2
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
11) If you are using a chain be sure to put a guard over it, if there is any chance someone can get aan appendage caught in it
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#3
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
This is all great advice. It is so importance to go through the checklist yourself, before build season is over. So, here's the official checklist:
1) Go through the Robot Inspection checklist. And, because there's been so much discussion about bumper length: 8) Bumpers. Use ¾ inch thick by 5 inches tall plywood, 8 inch minimum length. The 8" does not include any plywood in the corner (overlapping another bumper). You must have 8" from the vertex (corner of the frame perimeter). I hope this helps. Good luck, everyone! |
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#4
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
This is our problem. According to a veteran programmer, our plans never seem to include the position of the Main Breaker and it always winds up in some random place. This time it's definitely visible... but behind a sheet of lexan. Aaah!
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#5
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
cut a "mousehole" in the lexan, big enough to provide hand room.
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#6
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
Does a Xerox of the lockup form count or does it have to be the actual signed form? It would seem prudent to make copies in case it gets lost.
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#7
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
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#8
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
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#9
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
I am going to answer a few questions in this post.
First, if you are shipping your robot in a crate, a reminder to everyone, it still must be sealed in a bag and the lockup form is still required. You can ship the lockup form in the crate if you wish. Be advised that when you remove the robot, the venue will take away the crate and you may not have access to it until the end of the event. You need the form in hand prior to a an inspector allowing you to open the seal and unbag your robot. In the absence of an original lockup form, a copy may accelerate the process but the non-compliance procedure may still be in effect. I will try and get an answer on that. Breakers behind lexan while looking good make it harder for field people to protect your investment. A hole in the lexan needs to be big enough for my hand to go in. Ask anybody, it is pretty big, I can bridge almost an octave and a half on the piano. Much bigger than a mouse. If it isn't easy to turn off we will all just sit and watch it burn and toast marshmallows. |
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#10
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
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#11
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
Get Peeps to make red white and blue marshmallows in the three Archimedean solids for FIRST. Talk about Dean's Homework!
More on topic, though: Can an extension of the "off" button be made? Labelled properly of course. There's always the trade-off between efficient electrical path battery-to-breaker-to-PDB and accessibility for safety. Additional incentive to not burning is not getting technical foul and red card for field damage. ![]() |
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#12
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
Bill,
If you are suggesting a push rod that couples to the breaker "off" button there would appear to be no rule that prevents that as long as you are not modifying the breaker. However, it seems that the complexity to make such a device and prevent it from accidentally triggering the breaker off is beyond what is really needed and would take away needed weight needed for other functionality. |
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#13
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
Al,
The reputation scores don't go high enough to handle yours. If the push rod or lever had a snap-over in the vein of fire-alarm boxes, inadvertent tripping could be minimized. I'm sure you've seen those hoods for toggle switches that reduce the chances for accidental operation too. I think our switch is in a good place this year, but there is some sentiment for having a cover for the control board. I'd like to preserve the access and noticeability for the switch in case they go wild with decorations. thanks again for this and indeed all your advice. |
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#14
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
I looked thru the inspection check list and didn't see anything about appendages being deemed legal during inspection. Will appendages be checked to make sure they adhere to rules and wether they obscure team numbers on bumpers?
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#15
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Re: Tips from a veteran Robot Inspector
Now that we have had a few days of rest after stop build...
I feel refreshed. Next installment to Al's Annual Inspection Thread, electrical. There is so many things that have changed and so many that remain the same. 1. All parts of the electrical system must be visible for inspection and on field diagnostics. Inspectors will need to see wires leaving the PD, breakers, speed controllers and motors. They will check for proper connection of the 5 volt regulator that feed the wireless access point. Power connections to the Crio, analog module, solenoid module and Digital Side Car must also be checked. 2. All indicators on the electrical system must be visible. Inspectors will check the LEDs during the 'power on' test for faults. There are three LEDs on the PD and the DSC, LEDs on the Crio and radio and the RSL if not lit must be checked on the DSC. 3. Wire size, the rules provide for the wire to be sized to the breaker. If you are using a 40 amp breaker, the wire can be a minimum of #12 or metric equiv. 4. Motors are a real challenge for us this year. More motors than ever before with certain motors from previous years and ARA available motors are all legal on the 2012 robot. Inspectors need to be able to identify these motors. If you are using motors from an ARA local outlet, you will need to show the paperwork that these were obtained through the legal source. 5. Custom circuits need to be checked for wiring, to insure they are properly supplied power, do not control loads directly or affect power pathways. 6. Insulation is required for the Crio and camera to prevent the battery from being connected to robot frame. The robot frame must be isolated from power. 7. Wiring colors will be checked. Red/white/brown/black w/stripe for +24, +12, +5 VDC supply wires and black/blue for supply return wires. Sorry, no exceptions. 8. One and only one wire per WAGO terminal. For multiple sensors that can be powered by one output, you may use a terminal strip or suitable splice/junction that is insulated. 9. All battery terminals must be insulated and any electrical connections that are not protected from other robots should also be insulated. We want you to play. 10. Battery must be securely mounted. Wire ties do not count. Secure belting, clamps, structural designs that prevent the battery from falling out are all legal and desirable. If you battery comes out, you will be disabled. Protect your battery, it is the lifeblood of your robot. There will be many robots tip overs, hard hits, falls off the bridge, etc. Last edited by Al Skierkiewicz : 24-02-2012 at 08:48. |
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