Bonding polycarbonate to polycarbonate

[DELurker]

You could take a piece of 1/16" polycarb (we did this at one point last week), bow it around into a hopper and put two mounting screws through the overlap into your frame, making it sit in place but still look kinda cool...

[Andy A.]

IPS Weld-On #16 works pretty well on polycarb. #'s 55 and 58 work even better. They're all 'solvent' cements, which likely means something like Methylene Chloride is the active ingredient. The nice part is that the heavier glue base is much easier to work with then a pure solvent.

I would not recommend using pure MEK or Methylene Chloride without a respirator and appropriate training. I use it at work but it's tricky stuff to use right and super toxic. Purpose made adhesives will give good results with far less risk and trouble.

[DELurker]

Originally Posted by Andy A.

IPS Weld-On #16 works pretty well on polycarb. #'s 55 and 58 work even better. They're all 'solvent' cements, which likely means something like Methylene Chloride is the active ingredient. The nice part is that the heavier glue base is much easier to work with then a pure solvent.

I was looking around for something else and found IPS Weld-On #4 recommended with a needle bottle applicator. From McMaster-Carr, it would be 7517A1 for 4 oz of adhesive ($8.79, water-thin) and 1902T41 for the needle bottle ($6.67). Recommendations online are to clamp the parts together and run a very tight bead of solvent down the seam, letting the adhesive wick into the joint.

MSDS #1 - http://www.curbellplastics.com/techn...c-weldon-4.pdf
MSDS #2 - http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/p...%204%20New.pdf

[Andy A.]

Originally Posted by DELurker

I was looking around for something else and found IPS Weld-On #4 recommended with a needle bottle applicator. From McMaster-Carr, it would be 7517A1 for 4 oz of adhesive ($8.79, water-thin) and 1902T41 for the needle bottle ($6.67). Recommendations online are to clamp the parts together and run a very tight bead of solvent down the seam, letting the adhesive wick into the joint.

MSDS #1 - http://www.curbellplastics.com/techn...c-weldon-4.pdf
MSDS #2 - http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/p...%204%20New.pdf

The super thin glues are great for repairs of plastic parts because, as you say, you can let it wick into joints or cracks. The problem is that the thinner the glue the harder it is to control and the less tolerant it is of less then perfect fit between parts. It's just really easy to dribble it where you don't want it, and the tiniest gap between your part will result in a poor bond.

I use straight MC for repair work and #16 for making new parts or where I need a degree of gap filling. As long as you're very careful and have very clean edges, the wicking method makes for a better looking joint, for sure.

[thinker&planner]

McMaster Carr has a bunch of adhesives that work great.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesives/=lg4k4p

Just wondering, how about Aluminum to a rubber/urethane?

[protoserge]

Originally Posted by thinker&planner

McMaster Carr has a bunch of adhesives that work great.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesives/=lg4k4p

Just wondering, how about Aluminum to a rubber/urethane?

What kind of urethane? Something like a urethane belt material or more like a rubbery cushion?

I'd start with super glues. RTV should be good as well, and may work better.

[Ian Curtis]

Originally Posted by Ian Curtis

Hi everyone,

Does anyone have experience bonding polycarbonate to itself? I have tried thick CA (superglue) and this stuff called SCIGRIP 16 which I was told was recommended by the guy at the counter at TAP Plastics. The thick CA is pretty lousy, and the SCIGRIP 16 works alright, but I was wondering if anyone could recommend a better option...

Thanks!

For the record I ended up using the SCIGRIP stuff because I never got a chance to run over and investigate something else between work, FIRST, and life. It actually worked pretty good when clamped in place and allowed to set, but I will definitely investigate other welding options in the off season as I'm not super happy with the way it looks.

Thanks for the suggestions!

[High Voltage]

The best adhesive you can use is a product called Channel Bond, it's specifically made for Polycarb to Polycarb bonding and it's a one part system so no need for a gun, tips, cardridges etc., you just pour back in the container when you're done. Using a Weld-on 3,4, 16 won't do it right. I bond huge polycarb faces for electric sign faces and this stuff works wonders. You can also use it to bond acrylic to polycarb. The only place I know you can get it is here, it does ship hazmat ground uness you can find a place that has it in stock so you can avoid the hazmat shipping fee

http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/foru...-now-shipping/