Shooter wheel covering

[lcoreyl]

Originally Posted by fb39ca4

This will not help with distance because the point of having a compressible material is to increase the time and amount of frisbee in contact with the wheel. If you don't make the wheel compressible, the frisbee will only touch at that one point where it and the wheel are tangent.

Have you actuallytried a compressible wall?

[eddie12390]

Originally Posted by fb39ca4

This will not help with distance because the point of having a compressible material is to increase the time and amount of frisbee in contact with the wheel. If you don't make the wheel compressible, the frisbee will only touch at that one point where it and the wheel are tangent.

I believe the fact that you are also storing energy in the frisbee when you compress it can also have an effect on distance.

[arun4444]

The problem is, any change you make you have to go through the tweaking process over again, how bad is the ware rate? how many Frisbees can you shoot before having to change the tubing?

cheers
arun

[cad321]

Originally Posted by arun4444

The problem is, any change you make you have to go through the tweaking process over again, how bad is the ware rate? how many Frisbees can you shoot before having to change the tubing?

cheers
arun

We can get about 50 shots on 1 wheel. We don't think this is that bad as one of our old prototypes needed to be changed every 2-3. The issue is that it takes to long to go and change our wheel(about 10 minutes which is no good in eliminations). Can anyone think of a material that can act like the tubing but more durable? We are currently thinking of using andymark tread instead . Ill be looking around in Toronto tomorrow for insparation.

[arun4444]

one quick change you can make is make the wall flexible - so maybe thin gauge metal only fastened on two points - for a rubber-band effect, replicates to some extent what pneumatics do.

Somthing like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aszDpJW_8bA

but with only two hold-downs - the tension follows the Frisbee.

also you can try cutting up the latex and riveting it on - maybe that helps because it will reduce movement of the latex.

cheers
arun

[lcoreyl]

Please also remember safety when you talk about attaching things to wheels that are already spinning beyond what they're designed for.

a little searching and you can find a pic on CD of what happens when tread separates from a wheel by pulling out of its rivets, but don't if you have a weak stomach.

Stay far from the plane of the wheel ("plane of death", "plane of destruction"), and use guards if you're going to experiment further with (cough) re-inventing the wheel.

[cbale2000]

Can't believe this hasn't been suggested yet, but if you can get these in time...

http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-0970.htm

Problem solved. Same size, you get the compression you need (even variable to some extent as you can play with the pressure of the wheels), and it should mount on the existing hole pattern of the wheels you're currently using.

[S2K JDM]

used that wedgetop tread that you can buy from andymark on a 6" performance wheel. we also put that same material on our wall that is 1/8 thick lexan. it seems to work pretty good.

[cad321]

Originally Posted by cbale2000

Can't believe this hasn't been suggested yet, but if you can get these in time...

http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-0970.htm

Problem solved. Same size, you get the compression you need (even variable to some extent as you can play with the pressure of the wheels), and it should mount on the existing hole pattern of the wheels you're currently using.

These are what we were going to use originally however one of our mentors mentioned that people have found that by spinning them at the 6000rpm we are that they will explode. This is what made us think of surgical tubing to get similar results. Also those weigh .5lbs heavier than our current wheels and we need as much weight reduced as possible to prevent being overweight. If it weren't for this problem we would put them on, as we have 2 lying around the shop.

[lcoreyl]

Originally Posted by cad321

These are what we were going to use originally however one of our mentors mentioned that people have found that by spinning them at the 6000rpm we are that they will explode. This is what made us think of surgical tubing to get similar results. Also those weigh .5lbs heavier than our current wheels and we need as much weight reduced as possible to prevent being overweight. If it weren't for this problem we would put them on, as we have 2 lying around the shop.

my opinion: I would be more concerned with tread pulling from rivets or anything else that's "stuck" onto a wheel pulling apart then the pneumatic tire material breaking.
My (limited) evidence: I still get pretty nervous when seeing the tire "pancake" a bit at higher rpm when it is filled to "a little bit more than flat", but our 5+ year old tire has never failed. I HAVE experienced andymark tread coming out of rivets twice in 2009 when we were spinning a traction wheel at ~4000 rpm. Also this

[pilum40]

We went through the same issues. Spent big bucks on pneumatic wheels, etc. and ended up using an adhesive non slip rubberized tape on our wheels. Glued it down with industrial strength super glue and it works just fine. We put a small (thin) piece of the same material on the opposite wall. We made it a bit longer than the wheel's contact space. It too works great. Got the stuff at home depot. The glue is some I use for my wargame miniature construction.

[cad321]

Do you have a link or picture of this material you have put on your wheels? Is it like the non-slip material you put under a rug or more like what you would find on the step of a ladder. This type of solution is exactly what we need we just haven't found a material yet. How much compression did you have on the Frisbee(if any)? Also what kind of results were you getting; 10ft, 20ft 30ft...?