Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?

[achen15]

Hey everyone,

To my understanding, when you turn the robot on, the spike controlling our pneumatic switch should turn either red/green from orange. Our spike stays orange. We can't hear anything coming from the compressor, but every other mechanism on the robot works. What's going wrong?

Also, if this has anything to do with it, the dlink turns red upon first turning on. Then, after around 10-15 seconds, it turns blue and the robot runs functionally. (asides from the pneumatics)

[Tom Bottiglieri]

The control (pwm) connector can be pretty finicky. Verify the green LED next to the correct relay port is lit on the DSC, then twiddle/replace the signal cable until it works.

[Bryce Paputa]

That is what the router is supposed to do, the red light signals that it is booting up. I assume you mean that it doesn't work when you enable the robot right? When you turn the robot on it shouldn't do anything at all until it is enabled. Other than that, it's probably either an issue with the wires and connections going to the spike and and pressure switch from the digital sidecar, a programming issue, or an issue with the pressure switch itself.

Try temporarily shorting the leads of the pressure switch while the robot is enabled, if this turns on the compressor, then you have a bad pressure switch. If that doesn't do anything, then make sure that the wires and their connectors are good and plugged in to the ports specified in the programming.

[Jared]

Originally Posted by achen15

Hey everyone,

To my understanding, when you turn the robot on, the spike controlling our pneumatic switch should turn either red/green from orange. Our spike stays orange. We can't hear anything coming from the compressor, but every other mechanism on the robot works. What's going wrong?

Also, if this has anything to do with it, the dlink turns red upon first turning on. Then, after around 10-15 seconds, it turns blue and the robot runs functionally. (asides from the pneumatics)

The red light on the dlink is normal.

On the DSC, next to the connector for the compressor relay, is the light turning green? If not, you have a programming problem.

[pastelpony]

Do you have the code that controls the pneumatics? If so, can you share it?

[achen15]

All LEDs on the DSC are green, and I don't think it's a programming problem. We used the bot all throughout competition and our fairly simple code was never an issue for us. I might try shorting the leads on the pressure switch to see if I get any response.

[Jared]

Originally Posted by achen15

All LEDs on the DSC are green, and I don't think it's a programming problem. We used the bot all throughout competition and our fairly simple code was never an issue for us. I might try shorting the leads on the pressure switch to see if I get any response.

I'm not talking about the three green LEDs for 5V, 6V, and BAT, I'm talking about the row of LEDs next to the relay outputs.

Next to the relay port where the compressor's relay is plugged into, there should be a green light that comes on when the robot is enabled.

[achen15]

No relay LED's illuminate when turned on.

[achen15]

Also, here is our robot's code, if that helps.

[pastelpony]

Hmm. You have the relay set to turn "On" with the operator's controls. You should use "Forward" instead of "On."

Anyway, you should check the operator's controls. That may be it.

Edit: Just realized it was rigged to a pressure switch. Sorry.

[DampRobot]

Spikes are extremely finicky. They were the bane of 100's offseason last year, I think we used our three timeouts at each of our three offseasons on fixing a spike that suddenly decided not to turn on when we enabled. Try switching out spikes, Pwm cables, and verify that when the robot is enabled, the relay output goes on as expected. And verify that the pressure switch is closed when the pressure is under 115 psi or so, and that it is connected correctly to the DSC.

One option if you're sick and tired of spikes breaking for the stupidest reasons, you can use a Talon instead. You will need to put the Talon on a regular PWM port on the DSC instead of a relay port, and you will need to change software, but it's an option that works. Keep in mind that this is illegal, but as long as you have a correctly working and programmed pressure switch and a correctly installed emergency relief valve on the compressor, this is just as safe as using a spike.

Like others have said, the router thing is normal.

[Alan Anderson]

Since the Compressor relay is configured as "forward only", setting it "On" will work fine.

Since you say you don't get a green LED next to the relay pins, the Spike LED will stay orange. Don't focus on the Spike until you get the proper response from the Digial Sidecar relay status LED.

How do you have your pressure switch wired? Specifically, which pins on the Digital Sidecar are connected to it?

Your code is well-instrumented with appropriate feedback via Network Tables. What do you see the pressure switch value doing when you run the code?

[hwill459]

this is what our digital sidecar looks like (same robot as achen15)

[achen15]

I have no idea why, but the relay LED now turns on when we enable the robot (we have it plugged into #1). The cable where the LED lights up leads to the spike, but the spike is still orange. How do we get the spike to read green or red?

We also realized that whenever we unplug the pressure switch from the Digital I/O, the relay LED corresponding to the PWM cable going to the spike turns off. That's normal, correct?

[DampRobot]

Originally Posted by achen15

I have no idea why, but the relay LED now turns on when we enable the robot (we have it plugged into #1). The cable where the LED lights up leads to the spike, but the spike is still orange. How do we get the spike to read green or red?

We also realized that whenever we unplug the pressure switch from the Digital I/O, the relay LED corresponding to the PWM cable going to the spike turns off. That's normal, correct?

Yes, that's how it should be. When the DSC senses the pressure switch is open (ie, disconnected or over ~115psi), it turns the compressor relay off.

Basically, from what you're telling us, it seems like a PWM cable or spike problem at the moment. Try switching out the cable and/or spike with new ones until the light on the spike goes on.