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Unread 04-03-2004, 01:03
Greg Needel's Avatar Unsung FIRST Hero
Greg Needel Greg Needel is offline
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Re: pic: Team 710 Drive module

that is very cool....we only use ours on the back of our robot and have an omni wheel bar that comes down and suppports the front...i really like the automation of the system...what are you using for the feedback... limit switches?

i like it and look forward to seeing this bot inaction
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Unread 04-03-2004, 01:09
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Re: pic: Team 710 Drive module

Thanks!

We use banner sensors, one in front of each wheel. The way it is set up is that when one of the sensors gets over teh step it pulls either the front or the back up. The driver controls if the banner sensors are activated or not with the trigger button on the joystick. I think you can see the banners in one of our posted pics. One thing we have to do at comp is reset the banners to the hdpe on the step. Works well for the most part and takes one thing out of the driver's hands (not that me and dan couldnt do it )
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Last edited by abeD : 04-03-2004 at 01:12.
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Unread 04-03-2004, 01:10
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Re: pic: Team 710 Drive module

Greg, as abeD said earlier, we're doing the same type of drivetrain. We are going to be using limit switches for feedback. We considered using other kinds of proximity sensors, but due to time and money constraints, we chose to go with the limit switches we had lying around the lab.

How about you guys?
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Unread 04-03-2004, 00:29
sanddrag sanddrag is offline
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Re: pic: Team 710 Drive module

We replaced a 3/16 solid plate with 1/8 lasercut and sides bent down and it is 2 lbs lighter. It is still just as strong. We replaced another 3/16 solid plate with a 1/8 solid plate with sides bent down and saved 1.25 lbs there. We replaced the 1/2" di steel hook with a 3/8" di steel hook and saved about 2 lbs there. We replaced the .125 sheet metal pivoting arm with one made from .063 and there is only one place where it flexes where we just added a little .063 thick brace. Saved abotu 2 lbs on that. We chopped down our window motor/arm mounts and cut the $^#% out of the 3/16 mounting plates and saved about another 2 lbs there. We removed the van door motor mount completely and lightened the U-pillow block and saved about .5 lb there.

We also lightened everything we could from the start (axles, gears, sprockets, shaft collars) Without the hanger, our robot is basically the same as last year's, except about 35 lbs lighter. I'd say we did a good job with lightening. You will see strategically placed cutouts and bends and a well chosen material thickness, not a whole bunch of speed holes.

A lot of times in FIRST the strength of a component is largely underestimated and the forces applied to that component are largely underestimated. Sure it is cool to have a robot built like a tank but when it is 130lbs and all it does is drive, that is not cool.

You don't always need thick material to get the job done. Throw in a couple bends and it makes it a lot stronger.

Our battery/compressor tray is only .040 thick but it doesn't flex because it has bends.

Over the off-season, each team should really assess the strength of each component and try re-making it out of a thinner material or with more cutouts.
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Last edited by sanddrag : 04-03-2004 at 00:32.
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